Page 171 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera
P. 171

THE  RIVIER A  DI  PONENTE      169


       g Pigna             h Dolceacqua        Capo Sant’Ampelio, is the
                                               Romanesque church of
       Imperia. Road Map A4. * 1,015.    See pp170–71.  Sant’Ampelio, with an
       V Ventimiglia. @ n Comune,
       Piazza Umberto I, 0184 241 016.  j Bordighera  11th-century crypt. It stands
                                               on the spot where Ampelio
                                               (a hermit who later became
                           Imperia. Road Map A5. * 11,300.
       Situated in the foothills of the   V @ n Via Vittorio Emanuele II   a saint), once lived.
       Maritime Alps in the Alta Val   172–174, 0184 262 322. _ Bordighera     In the historical centre, look
       Nervia, some 40 km (25 miles)   Città dell’Umorismo, a festival of   out for the 17th-century church
       north of San Remo, Pigna is a   humour (late Apr–early May); Sagra   of Santa Maria Maddalena,
       fascinating place – its form is   del Pesce (mid-Jul); Berlecata Sasso   with a fine early 16th-century
       reminiscent of the eponymous   (early Aug). ∑ visitrivieradeifiori.it  marble sculpture on the high
       district in San Remo. Strolling         altar, attributed to the workshop
       around the narrow streets,   The famous painting by Monet,   of Domenico Parodi. In nearby
       known as chibi, it is easy to   A View of Bordighera, is evidence   Piazza De Amicis there is a
       under stand how the medieval   of the historic fame of this sunny   marble fountain (1783) featuring
       town was built, with the houses   and lively resort. As was the case   a statue of Magiargiè, who was
       grouped defensively on   elsewhere on the Riviera, Bordig-  a slave to the Spanish Moors
       concentric streets.  hera was particularly popular   and died in Bordighera.
         Among a number of fine   with the British. Here, too, visitors     For a quiet interlude, visit the
       churches, the most important    will find Art Nouveau palazzi   Giardino Esotico Pallanca,
       is the church of San Michele,   (many con ver ted into hotels or   which has more than 3,000
       founded in 1450. A splendid   apartments), and a popular   species of cacti and succulents.
       white marble rose window,   seafront boule vard – the Lungo-
       perhaps the work of Giovanni   mare Argentina, with Capo   E Biblioteca Museo
       Gagini from the early 1500s,   Sant’ Ampelio at the far end. The   Clarence Bicknell
       adorns the façade. Inside, the   beach is good and often busy,   Via Bicknell 3. Tel 0184 263 694.
       Polyptych of St Michael is a   and dotted with palm trees.  Open 8:30am–1pm, 1:30–4:45pm
       monumental work by the   The Biblioteca Museo   Mon, 9am–1pm Tue–Thu.
       Piemontese artist       Clarence Bicknell    Closed public hols.
       Canavesio (1500s),        was founded by   Y Giardino Esotico Pallanca
       in which the                Clarence Bicknell,   Via Madonna della Ruota 1. Tel 0184
       influence of the           who was one of   266 347. Open winter: 9am–5pm
       Brea brothers (see         Bordighera’s many   daily; summer: 9am–12:30pm, 2:30–
       p163) is evident.          British visitors, a   7pm daily. & ∑ pallanca.it
       Also by                    vicar, botanist
       Canavesio are              and an archae-
       the frescoes               ologist. Bicknell’s
       portraying The   The rose window at San   library-cum-
       Passion of Christ,   Michele, Pigna  museum houses
       housed in the small        Roman funerary
       church of San Bernardo, within   objects and, more interestingly,
       the cemetery. Other places of   casts of rock drawings and a
       interest are the ruins of the   vast photo-graphic archive of
       church of San Tommaso, and   ancient graffiti from the nearby   Plaque welcoming people to
       Piazza Castello, with superb   Vallée des Merveilles in France.   Seborga, near Bordighera
       views over the village of    There is a handful of sights of
       Castel Vittorio.    historic interest. By the sea, on   Environs
                                               In a lofty position about 12 km
                                               (7 miles) north of Bordighera is
                                               the ancient village of Seborga,
                                               which, along with its 350 inhabi-
                                               tants, enjoys the unexpected
                                               title of “principality”. Thanks to a
                                               historical anomaly, the town was
                                               able to elect its own sovereign,
                                               Giorgio I, in 1963, and pass a
                                               constitution. The town has its
                                               own currency, the luigino
                                               (Seborga’s first mint was set up
                                               by Bene-dictine monks in 1660),
                                               print their own stamps, and
                                               its cars carry SB on their
       Cacti in the tropical garden of Pallanca at Bordighera  licence plates.
                                    For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7



   168-169_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd   169                    09/09/16   10:48 am
   166   167   168   169   170   171   172   173   174   175   176