Page 118 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES FORGET CAIRO?

THE BUILD-UP Modern Cairo was founded
on the east bank of the River Nile in AD 969,
but the area boasts a history stretching back
to Pharaonic times, as evidenced by the iconic
Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, which watch
over its western outskirts. Often dubbed “the
city that never sleeps,” Cairo is Africa’s largest
metropolitan area. Attractions include the
mind-boggling riches of the Egyptian Museum,
the historic Coptic and Arabic quarters, the
Cairo Opera House, and the soccer stadium.
THE LETDOWN Sheer urban chaos. There’s
a 24-hour aural backdrop of horn-blasting
traffic, a tangible aura of pollution, the world’s
most aggravating taxi drivers, and, above all,
was the largest library ever assembled by the crowds – caffeine-addled locals clogging up the
ABOVE Wall relief in the Kom es-Shoqafa Catacombs, Alexandria, Egypt ancients, and the harbor-front Pharos Lighthouse, pavements of Midan Tahrir, snap-happy tourists,
which collapsed in AD 700, stood taller than any and hawkers thronging around the pyramids.
Alexandria ancient structure aside from the Pyramids of Giza. GOING ANYWAY? If you can adapt to this
It was in Alexandria in around 30 BC that Cleopatra’s
vs Cairo suicide by snakebite marked the last gasp of the mayhem, Cairo soon asserts itself as one of the
world’s great cities. Fail to adapt, however, and
Pharaonic era, and, a century later, that the earliest
incarnation of Christianity was first formally codified. there are always the outlying pyramid sites of
Saqqara and Dahshur (see pp12–13) for relief.
Stately Alexandria makes for a much more The illustrious past of the city named the
“Capital of Memory” by the 20th-century British
satisfying urban break than brash Cairo
novelist Lawrence Durrell reveals itself in tantalizing
glimpses. No trace remains of Alexandria’s ancient
founder, despite persistent rumors that his tomb
NEED TO KNOW
lies beneath the Roman amphitheater. The site of
LOCATION Alexandria sprawls .FEJUFSSBOFBO the original library was discovered as recently as
for 19 miles (30 km) along the 4F B
Mediterranean coast of Egypt, "-&9"/%3*" 2004, and the ancient foundations of the Pharos
124 miles (200 km) from Cairo $BJSP Lighthouse now underpin the more recent Fort
POPULATION 4"6%* Qaitbey. And then there is the palace where
Around 4.2 million &(:15 "3"#*"
Cleopatra had her dalliances with Julius Caesar and
VISITORS PER YEAR -VYPS 3FE
Around 131,000 4FB Mark Antony, which has long been submerged in ABOVE Crowds crossing a typically traffic-clogged road
"TXBO in Cairo, Egypt
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES the harbor and is currently being excavated.
Jan: 59°F (15°C); Apr: 66°F (19°C);
Jul: 79°F (26°C); Oct: 75°F (24°C) 46%"/
MAIN CITY SIGHTS
Roman Amphitheatre The recently excavated
Egypt’s second city and largest port, Alexandria amphitheater is the city’s most impressive surviving
comes across as refreshingly unintimidating and Roman structure. A selection of delicate mosaics PRACTICAL INFORMATION
orderly when compared to Cairo. This is a lovely can be visited in situ in the adjacent Villa of Birds.
city to explore on foot – it’s hassle-free and Kom es-Shoqafa Catacombs These eerily brooding Getting There and Around Where to Stay
International flights land at Al Built in 1929, the Sofitel Cecil
endlessly rewarding, whether you follow the 2nd-century-AD relics of the Roman occupation
Nozha Airport, 4 miles (7 km) Hotel (www.sofitel.com), whose
sweeping palm-lined corniche to the imposing are reached by a spiral staircase that burrows 115 ft southeast of the city, or Borg al former guests include Noel
medieval walls of the harbor-front Fort Qaitbey or (35 m) underground. After a trip here, visit nearby Arab Airport, 31 miles (50 km) Coward and Winston Churchill,
wander the narrow backstreets through bustling Pompey’s Pillar, a 82-ft- (25-m-) tall Pharaonic column. to the west. Reliable train and bus heads the list when it comes to
services connect Alexandria to historic ambience and a prime
markets to its many Roman ruins. Bibliotheca Alexandrina This modern landmark, location on the corniche.
Cairo. The city center is easily
Contemporary Alexandria, set at the physical which evokes its legendary ancient namesake, was explored on foot. Taxis are cheap When to Go
and cultural juncture of Africa, Europe and Arabia, inaugurated in 2002, more than two millennia after and a good option if you want to There’s no bad time to visit the
is a difficult city to pin down. Though predominantly the original building was razed to the ground by a explore further afield. city, but its temperate climate
makes it a great winter
Islamic, it still remains the most important center Christian mob. The ancient building contained Where to Eat destination. The sea keeps
of the Coptic Church, founded here almost 2,000 some 700,000 papyrus scrolls, and its modern-day Eating out is one of the chief temperatures down in the
pleasures in this city. Local
years ago. Architecturally, the city has a distinctly replacement ranks among the world’s largest hottest months (Jul– Aug).
Egyptian fare is very tasty and
Mediterranean character, while its aura of moderate libraries, with shelf space for eight million books. inexpensive. Locals and visitors Budget per Day for Two
affluence is decidedly atypical of urban Africa. Fort Qaitbey Built in the 1480s to guard the generally agree that there’s no Less than US$50 if you want to
Alexandria’s historical pedigree is second to entrance to the harbor, this imposing fort stands on better place to sample the city’s keep costs down, but US$150–
300 if you’re living it up.
none. It was founded in 334 BC by Alexander the the foundations of the 492-ft- (150-m- ) high Pharos legendary fresh seafood than the
unpretentious Kadoura Restaurant Website
Great and served as the capital of Egypt for 1,000 Lighthouse, which was built in the 3rd century BC (tel. +20 3 480 0405). www.egypt.travel
years. The city’s original Bibliotheca Alexandrina and collapsed 1,000 years later.

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