Page 119 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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FORGET CUSCO? CITIES

THE BUILD-UP Cusco, the former capital
of the Inca, boasts a plethora of pre-colonial
and colonial-era sights, and is a jumping-off
point for trips to Machu Picchu and Lake
Titicaca. It’s small wonder this is the most-
visited city in Peru, and its enormous selection
of tours means that there’s something for
every type of visitor.

THE LETDOWN Most of Cusco’s Inca
heritage was destroyed centuries ago, and
what is visible now is in ruins. Furthermore,
sightseeing here can be daunting. The city is
congested and rife with fly-by-night operators,
with visitors often being handed back and forth
between self-appointed “guides” and “experts”
who frequently require a big cash outlay.
ABOVE View across the rooftops of Potosí from the top of the San
Francisco Church
GOING ANYWAY? If Cusco is on your must-see
Potosí richest city in the New World for nearly two centuries, many of which have more to offer in terms of
list, opt for a trip to the city’s outlying areas,
local culture. Here you’ll see more at your own
vs Cusco thanks to its fabled Cerro Rico – the world’s largest pace, without the crowds and the pressure to
buy yet another guided tour.
silver mine. Today, the mine’s once-prodigious output
is everywhere to be seen. It adorns ceilings and
walls in every other building, gleaming unexpectedly
With its colonial grandeur and air of mystery,
from dimly lit corners. The brilliant metal covers the
Potosí has the edge on better-known Cusco altar in the Baroque Church of San Lorenzo,
dominates the collection at the Casa de Moneda
(Royal Mint) and can be seen in no less than nine
NEED TO KNOW
museums and as many convents around the city.
LOCATION Potosí lies More than 2,000 colonial buildings have been
on Bolivia’s chilly, windswept
southwest Altiplano 1&36 identified or preserved in Potosí, which is more
(Andean plateau)
#3";*- than in any other Latin American city – it’s little
POPULATION -B 1B[ #0-*7*" wonder this remarkable place became Bolivia’s first ABOVE Groups of vacationers taking a break on the historic
Around 150,000 4BOUB $SV[ Plaza de Armas in Cusco, Peru
0SVSP UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
VISITORS PER YEAR
About 7,500, most of whom 4VDSF
come for Carnival 10504¶ MAIN CITY SIGHTS
1"3"(6":
HEIGHT ABOVE SEA Casa de Moneda Potosí’s first mint is now one of
LEVEL 13,350 ft (4,070 m) $)*-& "3(&/5*/"
Latin America’s finest museums. It boasts an art
gallery full of priceless viceregal paintings, a large PRACTICAL INFORMATION
There’s no shortage of people who have journeyed exhibition space with displays on everything from
to Cusco in Peru and other cities along South colonial coins to current smelting techniques, and Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Getting to Potosí is no hardship. Try the comfortable, centrally
America’s “gringo trail,” but very few have marveled a larger-than-life mask of Bacchus in the courtyard
The city is served by a high- located Hostal Colonial
at Potosí – a city that takes your breath away, and that must be seen to be believed. altitude airport, which boasts (tel. +591 622 4809). The
not only because of its high altitude. This majestic Convento y Museo de Santa Teresa This 1691 fantastic views. Many travelers friendly staff here have a
place is today home to the descendants of those wonder, which is the center of all things Baroque in arrive via bus or 4WD from La well-deserved reputation for
who labored for the Spanish centuries ago, and has the city, does double duty as a museum and a Paz or Oruro, and enjoy equally assisting travelers of all stripes.
impressive views on the way. The
a colonial legacy to rival that of any other Latin convent – the nuns live next door. Here you’ll find When to Go
city is easy to walk around and
American city. Cusco, Lima, and Mexico City might some of the continent’s most impressive colonial taxis are plentiful and cheap. Potosí can be chilly all year round,
but is most pleasant during the
all have their charms, but they also have plenty of and religious artworks, and exhibits on convent life. Where to Eat summer months, from June to
drawbacks, not least their over-abundance of Cerro Rico Words fail to describe this colossal The cuisine in Potosí is similar August, when it is dry and sunny.
tourists. Much of Potosí is a peaceful treasure trove monument to avarice, the silver mine, which has to that found throughout the Budget per Day for Two
of colonial architecture, art, and antiques, where been a graveyard to more than a million miners Andes, only it has more spice to No more than US$75. Much of
it. There are myriad chicken- and
the past lingers on in grand old buildings and on over the centuries. A tour is an absolute must. the city can be seen on foot,
potato-based dishes on offer,
charming cobbled streets. Churches of San Francisco, San Lorenzo, San and warm soups are a traditional which brings travel costs down.
The city’s proud motto – “I am rich Potosí, Martín and the Jesuits These superb churches lie favorite. El Mesón, located on Prices here are among the lowest
treasure of the world, king of the mountains, envy near each other in the heart of the city, and are the main square (tel. +591 622 of anywhere on the continent.
3087), is an excellent restaurant Website
of kings” – coined by Charles I of Spain more than widely considered to rank among the world’s finest
and a great place to sample local www.boliviaweb.com/cities/
400 years ago, only hints at Potosí’s former glory. examples of colonial architecture. They also house dishes at affordable prices. potosi.htm
This was the world’s first boom town and the some outstanding pieces of religious art.

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