Page 120 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

288

CITIES Less-Explored
New York

Scratch the surface of the world’s most iconic city and you’ll find another side to this diverse,
culture-crammed metropolis – and understand why the slogan is “I ♥ New York” ABOVE Sightseers admiring the Statue of Liberty, New York
FORGET THE NEW

to Italian Brooklyn, where white-haired nonnas YORK TOURIST TRAIL?
NEED TO KNOW
(grandmothers) watch the world go by from their
LOCATION New York City $ "/"%" wooden chairs on shaded pavements. And bigger THE BUILD-UP New York’s skyline is perhaps
is in New York State on the 4FBUUMF its most celebrated (and recognized) feature,
east coast of the USA isn’t always better: Fifth Avenue’s fragrant, multi-
4BO /&8 :03, so it’s not surprising that most of the city’s main
POPULATION 'SBODJTDP 6 4 " tiered department stores make for splendid window-
Around 8.3 million people 8BTIJOHUPO % $ browsing, of course, but for local designers, hit sights are architectural, with many offering
VISITORS PER YEAR -PT "OHFMFT downtown’s quirky shopping district, where you can soaring views of the twinkling lights – and of
Around 40 million )PVTUPO each other. The Empire State Building and
find everything from hand-sewn, sequined skinny
DAYTIME Statue of Liberty lead the pack, followed by the
TEMPERATURES .&9*$0 jeans to custom cuff links and (because you know splendid span of the Brooklyn Bridge. Then
Jan: 32°F (0°C); Apr: 54°F (12°C); you want one) Yankees caps along Canal Street at a there’s the unmissable Museum Mile, which
Jul: 77°F (25°C); Oct: 57°F (14°C)
fraction of the uptown cost. As for avant-garde art, runs along Central Park, where you can peruse
with such New York names as Warhol and Basquiat superb art collections and then take a breezy
Even for first-time visitors, New York will seem as for inspiration, emerging artists from around the stroll through the world’s best-known city park.
familiar as an old friend. It is, after all, one of the most world introduce their collections at the city’s
THE LETDOWN Two words: sweaty lines.
filmed, photographed, and written-about cities in galleries. And far from the chorus-line high kicks and
Visiting the city’s big-name sights – particularly
the world, and its icons have achieved something feather headdresses of Broadway are the alternative
in the heat-blasted summer months – is a
of a superstar status. Wander the city, and celluloid theaters (or “off-off-Broadway,” as they’re called), with
practice in patience. The lines at the Empire
images will flicker across your consciousness: Cary quirky shows from poetry slams to body-painting. State Building are notorious – you could spend
Grant waiting in vain for his love atop the Empire The television show Sex and the City trained a the better part of your afternoon on the hot
State Building in the 1957 classic An Affair to spotlight on the city’s flirty nightlife – where you can pavement. Another downer about the iconic
Remember; Audrey Hepburn strolling Fifth Avenue gaze at a sparkling view of Manhattan while sipping sights is that they’re, well, iconic: the hype, the
and gazing into Manhattan’s most famous jewelry a drink of the same name. But explore the city’s crowds and the fact that you’ve probably seen
store in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961); and Spiderman crooked backstreets and you’ll come across rumpled, them in photos and films ad nauseam can make
swooping towards the Brooklyn Bridge to save his centuries-old bars with uneven floors, scarred the real thing somewhat anti-climactic.
dangling leading lady in the 2002 Hollywood wooden furniture, and ruddy-cheeked regulars
DOING IT ANYWAY? To avoid the wait at the
blockbuster of the same name. And Central Park? who’ll fill you in on other local haunts.
Empire State Building, buy your tickets online
This lush swath of green could practically apply for
(www.esbnyc.com), or arrive when it opens at
its own Actors’ Union card, having been the verdant 8 am, or in the early evening. In general, a prompt
backdrop for lovers smooching, strolling, and ice- PRACTICAL INFORMATION morning arrival helps greatly in bypassing the
skating, as well as plenty of chase scenes, in films crowds, particularly at popular museums such
Getting There and Around distance of Times Square and
from Annie Hall (1977) to Ghostbusters (1984). Even a as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, MoMA,
New York is served by three major Grand Central Station. The Mayfair
subway grating has received top billing – remember airports: JFK and LaGuardia (both (www.mayfairnewyork.com) and the Museum of Natural History.
Marilyn Monroe with her skirt flying up? in Queens), and Newark (in New boasts boutique comfort in the
Without doubt, New York lives up to its name, Jersey). To get from the airports thick of the Theater District. Head
but it’s when you go from the legendary to the to the city take the subway, a bus to SoHo for the 60 Thompson
(www.mta.org), a shuttle bus (www.60thompson.com), an
lesser known that the city really stirs to life. Roam
(www.supershuttle.com) or a taxi. elegant, soothing antidote to
the vibrant ethnic neighborhoods, from the the city’s accelerated pace.
Where to Eat
sizzling taquerías (taco stalls) of Spanish Harlem
New York’s cuisine is marvelously When to Go
varied, from haute French to spicy Spring and early fall usher in the
Mexican. The Balthazar (www. finest New York weather. But for
balthazarny.com) serves up superb fewer crowds, aim for October
French fare, with an infectious vibe. and November, after the summer,
For juicy burgers head to Corner but before the December rush.
Bistro (tel. +1 212 242 9502) Budget per Day for Two
and for Italian with a twist, fill up The sky’s the limit for what you
at Babbo (www.mariobatali.com), can spend in New York, but budget
a popular restaurant with super- US$250–350 for a mid-range
chef Mario Batali at the helm. hotel, a meal out, and the
Where to Stay occasional taxi.
The Pod (www.thepodhotel.com) Website
has simple rooms within strolling www.nycvisit.com
ABOVE Central Park on a summer’s day with skyscrapers in the distance

11/3/09 16:14:14
288-289_cit_offbeat_ny.indd 288
US288-289_cit_offbeat_ny.indd 288 16/4/09 12:34:48