Page 144 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES

FORGET BUDAPEST?

THE BUILD-UP The capital of Hungary, which
boasts grand Baroque architecture and pretty
tree-lined boulevards, is one of Europe’s most
beautiful cities. The majestic Danube River,
which separates historic Buda from modern
Pest, is spectacular at night when each bank is
illuminated by a string of lights. There are
many historic spas around the city.

THE LETDOWN Budapest has the air of having
seen better days. The most popular spas are
often packed with tourists, despite their
crumbling appearance and sulfurous smell.
The city seems to lack nightlife, with the center
all but deserted on a weekend evening. Food
ABOVE The rooftop pool at Thermae Bath Spa, UK and of the sulfurous smell that pervades Hungary’s here is generally hearty but unsophisticated.
baths. It is a monument to luxury, with five floors of GOING ANYWAY? Visit a spa for a unique
Bath pools, steam “pods,” and treatment rooms. Take its cultural experience. It is where locals gather to
rooftop facility: on a cool evening, thick clouds of
discuss the issues of the day and men play chess
vs Budapest steam rise and part to reveal a clear pool dotted on the side of the pool. Head for Buda for its
with swimmers immersed in its warm, mineral-rich
historic streets and a fantastic view of the city
waters. There’s no better way to unwind than
lingering in the gentle Jacuzzis here while surveying from the Fishermen’s Bastion. In winter, don’t
miss the Christmas market on Vörösmarty Tér.
Budapest, with its healing waters, has just met the rooftops of creamy Georgian buildings glowing
its match in the rejuvenated spa city of Bath in the sunset, as pigeons fly past at eye level.
It’s not just thermal waters that make Bath one of
Europe’s great cities. This is a thriving place with fine
NEED TO KNOW
theaters, cinemas, live music, and great restaurants,
LOCATION Bath is about 100 shops, museums, and art galleries. While the Danube
miles (160 km) west of London *OWFSOFTT
"UMBOUJD is undeniably beautiful, this British university town
POPULATION 0DFBO
Around 80,000 (MBTHPX &EJOCVSHI has its own pretty river, the Avon, crossed by the
VISITORS PER YEAR /PSUI charming Pulteney Bridge. Bath is also renowned
4FB
Nearly 4 million day for its splendid Georgian architecture, and has a
visitors to the city .BODIFTUFS
*3&-"/% 6/*5&% thriving pub and club scene to which its Central ABOVE Locals playing chess in a bath in Budapest, Hungary
DAYTIME
,*/(%0.
TEMPERATURES -POEPO European counterpart can only aspire.
Jan: 48°F (9°C); Apr: 57°F (14°C); #"5)
Jul: 72°F (22°C); Oct: 61°F (16°C) MAIN CITY SIGHTS
Roman Baths and Pump Room The original Bath PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Budapest is commonly seen as a kind of nirvana spa is fascinating to visit. Built as a temple and
for spa-lovers. Since the invading Ottoman Turks sanctuary in around AD 70, the ruins are in very Getting There and Around Where to Stay
The nearest airport is just If you’re in Bath for a pampering
introduced communal bathing to Central Europe good condition, with Roman plumbing that still
outside Bristol, 20 miles (32 km) weekend, then choose a luxury
in the 16th century, Hungarians have embraced works. The adjoining 18th-century Pump Room, northwest of Bath, but most hotel to match. The 4-star,
the culture as their own. Such a mythology has once a rest center for the sick, is now a daytime international visitors will come boutique Queensbury Hotel
built up around this city that it’s easy to forget restaurant that offers spa water on the drinks menu. via London Heathrow Airport. (www.thequeensbury.co.uk) is
there are many equally great spa towns found Royal Crescent This sweeping semi-circle of Bath is well served by national in the city center, a short walk
trains and regional buses and is from the Thermae Bath Spa.
around Europe. One example is the city of Bath in elegant Georgian buildings is the architectural
10 miles (16 km) from Junction
the heart of England’s West Country, whose long pride of Bath. Of the 30 houses designated most 18 of the M4 motorway. When to Go
history of bathing dates back almost 2,000 years to historic, the two central buildings are now Any time of year, but avoid the
Where to Eat height of summer, when Bath
when the Romans built the first baths here. The occupied by the luxurious Royal Crescent Hotel. The food scene is well established gets busy. Britain’s weather is
city underwent a revival in the 18th century when Bath Abbey The 15th-century Abbey Church of in Bath, where there are several changeable, but in the Thermae
people flocked to its reputedly healing waters, but Saint Peter, with its 52 stained-glass windows and award-winning restaurants and rooftop spa, it doesn’t matter too
a multitude of independent and
gradually interest waned and in 1978 the baths were magnificent fan-vaulted ceiling, is the West Country’s much what the weather is doing.
chain restaurants serving all kinds
closed due to lack of funding and a health scare. finest example of Gothic Perpendicular architecture. Budget per Day for Two
of cuisine. The Hole in the Wall
Today, the UNESCO World Heritage City of Bath Climb the tower’s 212 steps for fantastic city views. (www.theholeinthewall.co.uk) is Around US$500 for your hotel, a
is seeing another revival following the opening of a Pulteney Bridge Built for businessman Sir William a great choice offering modern 2-hour spa session and meals.
There are no travel costs as all
new spa that throws down the gauntlet to Budapest. Pulteney by Robert Adam in 1773 to develop the British cuisine. Some of the sights can be reached on foot.
country’s top chefs trained here,
Thermae Bath Spa, which opened in 2006, draws Avon’s east bank, this is one of only four bridges in
yet it’s remarkably good value, Website
water from the same natural source used by the the world that is lined with shop buildings. Below
with meals for US$45 per head. www.visitbath.co.uk
Romans, though it is cleansed of harmful bacteria – it, the river drops down an attractive weir.

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