Page 140 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES Less-Explored

San Francisco

For every well-trodden tourist trail, San Francisco offers an equally fascinating
alternative, off the beaten track, for an authentic experience
ABOVE Tourists crowded along San Francisco’s popular
Fisherman’s Wharf
FORGET THE SAN
NEED TO KNOW For every famous tourist-laden attraction, there’s an
equally good spot for an authentic experience FRANCISCO TOURIST
LOCATION San nearby. Tired of the crowds and commercialism at TRAIL?
Francisco is located along $ "/"%"
California’s Pacific Coast 4FBUUMF Fisherman’s Wharf? Stroll along to see the historic
POPULATION 6 4 " /FX :PSL $JUZ ships at Hyde Street Pier. Frustrated by lines at THE BUILD-UP Most visitors come to the city
792,000 4"/ Coit Tower or Twin Peaks? A city with 43 named armed with film-fueled images of the Golden
'3"/$*4$0
VISITORS PER 8BTIJOHUPO % $ Gate Bridge rising out of the fog and boats
YEAR 16.1 million -PT "OHFMFT hills isn’t short of impressive views. Try the ocean bobbing alongside Fisherman’s Wharf. And
vistas from the windswept hills of the Presidio or
DAYTIME who can resist a ride on the romantic cable cars?
TEMPERATURES Jan: the quiet footpaths around the northwest coast.
57°F (14°C); Apr: 63°F (17°C); .&9*$0 At Alamo Square you can admire the classic
Jul: 66°F (19°C); Oct: 69°F (21°C) THE LETDOWN Fisherman’s Wharf is a tourist
row of “Painted Ladies” (wooden houses), with the
trap, with overpriced food and shops. Trips to
skyscrapers of the Financial District gleaming in the Alcatraz are often sold out. Parking is difficult
San Francisco is everybody’s favorite American background. Then explore the surrounding streets, at popular places and the streets to famous
city. It would be hard to find another with a more where you’ll find more of these ornate Victorian viewpoints can be clogged with traffic. There are
appealing combination of striking architecture, homes. Brave the descent down crooked Lombard only three cable car lines, so they are not a main
world-class cuisine, cultural attractions, vibrant Street on Russian Hill, and seek out hidden cobbled mode of transportation in the city.
communities and the laid-back, anything-goes lanes like Macondray Lane and Havens Place.
lifestyle, gilded with a mild climate and a stunning You can also visit outstanding art museums, DOING IT ANYWAY? Book tickets for Alcatraz
setting on the northern California coast. This is a such as the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, in advance. Go to Fisherman’s Wharf early in the
morning to spot a real fisherman. Wear comfort-
romantic city, and if you did nothing more than the Legion of Honor, the Asian Art Museum, and
able shoes. Use public transportation whenever
ride its antique cable cars, stroll along the the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park. But
possible, and ride the cable cars at least once.
waterfront, and watch the fog rolling in around the don’t miss the smaller museums dedicated to
Golden Gate Bridge, you would come away happy. cable cars, cartoon art, Jewish heritage, African
There is, however, much more to this diaspora, Chinese history, and life in pioneer days.
fascinating place. Since its meteoric rise during the And after you’ve admired the incomparable
1849 Gold Rush, San Francisco has always been a Golden Gate Bridge from every angle, drive across
free-thinking town. The rainbow slices of San it and look back across the bay for an unforgettable
Francisco’s city life are apparent in its more than 40 view of this splendid city.
neighborhoods. Visit the Italian café-bars of North
Beach, which were a hub for the Beat Generation PRACTICAL INFORMATION
writers of the 1950s, a legacy that still lingers. Get a
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
nostalgic blast of flower power in the old hippie
San Francisco International A budget option is Grant Plaza
haven of Haight-Ashbury. Castro is the center of Airport is 15 miles (25 km) Hotel (www.grantplaza.com).
the city’s gay and lesbian community, and its lively south of the city. Oakland You can opt for the mid-range
bars and clubs welcome straight revelers too. International Airport across the Hotel Boheme (www.hotel
bay is about 20 miles (33 km) boheme.com) or spend on
from downtown. The city has luxury at Palace Hotel
good public transportation links, (www.sfpalace.com).
so you don’t need to rent a car.
When to Go
Where to Eat Fall has the warmest
Combine the city’s diverse ethnic temperatures. Summers can
cuisines and top chefs with the be chilly. Winter brings heavy
Bay Area’s array of fresh produce, showers, but the climate is mild
seafood, and fine wines, and you year round. As the city is a
get a rich dining scene. Try Ella’s popular convention destination,
(www.ellassanfrancisco.com) hotels can be busy year round.
for an all-American breakfast;
R&G Lounge (www.rnglounge. Budget per Day for Two
com) for traditional Cantonese US$300 for accommodations and
cuisine; or Farallon (www. food at the recommended spots.
farallonrestaurant.com) for a Website
blow-the-budget seafood meal. www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com
ABOVE Cars navigating the sinuous curves of Lombard Street

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