Page 35 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

LISBON AREA B Y AREA  33

ALFAMA

It is difficult to believe that this humble most dilapidated areas, but daily life
neighbourhood was once the most desirable still revolves around local grocery
quarter of Lisbon. For the Moors, the tightly stores and small, cellar-like tavernas.
packed alleyways around the fortified castle Above the Alfama, the imposing
comprised the whole city. The seeds of Castelo de São Jorge crowns Lisbon’s
decline were sown in the Middle Ages when eastern hill. This natural vantage point,
wealthy residents moved west for fear of a defensive stronghold and royal palace
earthquakes, leaving the quarter to fishermen until the 16th century, is today a popular
and paupers. The buildings survived the 1755 promenade, with spectacular views
earthquake (see pp24–5) and, although from its reconstructed ramparts.
there are no Moorish houses still standing, West of the Alfama stand the proud
the quarter retains its kasbah-like layout. twin towers of the Sé. To the northeast,
Compact houses line steep streets and the domed church of Santa Engrácia
stairways, their façades strung with washing. and the white façade of São Vicente de
Long overdue restoration is under way in the Fora dominate the skyline.

Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries 8 Sé Restaurants p130
2 Museu de Artes Decorativas 9 Santo António à Sé 1 Bica do Sapato
6 Museu Militar Belvederes 2 Casa do Leão
Historic Buildings 1 Miradouro de Santa Luzia 3 Casanova
4 Chapitô a Mesa
7 Casa dos Bicos q Miradouro da Graça 5 Faz Figura
0 Castelo de São Jorge pp40–41 Markets 6 Hua-Ta-Li
Churches 4 Feira da Ladra 7 Santo António de Alfama
3 São Vicente de Fora 8 Sr Fado de Alfama
5 Santa Engrácia 9 Tentações de Goa
10 Via Graça
150m
CALÇADA D O M O N T E
GRAÇA LARGO DA GRAÇA R UA DA VERÓNICA

R . D A M O U R A R IA MOURARIA DA GRAÇA R. DA VOZ DO OPERÁRIO CAMPO DE SANTA CLARA
R. CAVALEIROS
L. DA S O LARIAS
R. DOS LAGARES
COSTA DO CASTELO C. DE SÃO VICENTE CAMPO D E SANTA C LARA R. DO PARAISO RUA DOS C. DE FERRO
CALCADA
C. DE SANTO ANDRÉ
Santa
C. DE TIJOLO
RUA DOS REMEDIOS
ALFAMA Apolónia
R. DAS ESCOLAS GERAIS
R. D O JARDIM DO TABACO
RUA DE S Ã O T O
MÉ
RUA A. ROSA RUA D O LIMOEIRO R. TERREIRO DO TRIGO A V E N I D A I N F A N T E D O M H E N R I Q U E
R. DE S. MIGUEL
R. DA REG U EIRA
C OSTA DO C ASTELO
o
RUA DA MADALENA
j
e
R. D A SAUDADE
RUA DE SAO MAMEDE
RUA SÃO JOÃO D A PRAÇA
T
RUA DOS BACALHOEIROS
0 metres 250 See Lisbon Street Finder
0 yards 250 maps 7–8
Painted ceiling of the 18th-century Baroque sacristy of São Vicente de Fora For keys to symbols see back flap
032-033_EW_Lisbon.indd 33 17/10/16 11:06 am