Page 39 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Lisbon

ALF A M A  37

4 Feira da Ladra (see p70) and Afonso de
Albuquerque, Viceroy of India
Campo de Santa Clara. Map 8 F2.
Open 7:30am–1pm Tue & Sat. (1502–15) on the left, and on
@ 712. v 28. the right Henry the Navigator
(see p23). More contemporary
The stalls of the so-called tombs include that of the
“Thieves’ Market” have occupied fadista Amália Rodrigues (see
this site on the edge of the p145). A lift up to the dome
Alfama for over a century, laid offers a 360-degree panorama
out under the shade of trees of the city.
or canopies. As the fame of this
flea market has grown, bargains
are increasingly hard to find 6 Museu Militar
among the mass of bric-a-brac, Largo do Museu de Artilharia. Map 8
but a few of the vendors D3. Tel 218 842 567. @ 728, 735, 759. The multi-coloured marble interior beneath
have interesting wrought-iron v 28. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, Santa Engrácia’s dome
work, prints and tiles, as well as 10am–12:30pm, 1:30–5pm Sat & Sun.
second-hand clothes. Evidence Closed public hols. & ∑ exercito.pt 7 Casa dos Bicos
of Portugal’s colonial past is Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 10. Map 8 D4.
reflected in the stalls selling Located on the site of a Tel 218 802 040. @ 728, 746, 759. v
African statuary, masks and 16th-century cannon foundry 18, 25. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat. &
jewellery. Fish, vegetables and and arms depot, the military
herbs are sold in the central museum contains an extensive Faced with diamond-shaped
wrought-iron marketplace. collection. Visits begin in the stones (bicos), this house looks
Vasco da Gama Room rather conspicuous among the
with a collection of old other buildings in this area. It
cannons and modern was built in 1523 for Brás de
murals depicting the Albuquerque, illegitimate son
discovery of the sea of Afonso, Viceroy of India and
route to India. The Salas conqueror of Goa and Malacca.
da Grande Guerra, on The façade is an adaptation of a
the first floor, display style that was popular in Europe
exhibits related to during the 16th century. The
World War I. Other two top storeys, ruined in the
rooms focus on the earthquake of 1755 (see pp24–5),
evolution of weapons were restored in the 1980s,
Bric-a-brac for sale in the Feira da Ladra flea market in Portugal, from recreating the original from old
primitive flints through views of Lisbon in tile panels
5 Santa Engrácia spears to rifles. The large and engravings. In the interim
courtyard, flanked by cannons, the building was used for salting
Campo de Santa Clara. Map 8 F2.
Tel 218 854 820. @ 712. v 28. tells the story of Portugal in fish (Rua dos Bacalhoeiros means
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 5pm tiled panels, from the Christian “street of the cod fishermen”).
Nov–Mar). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Apr, Easter reconquest to World War I. The It now has a permanent
Sun, 25 Dec. & 7 Portuguese artillery section in exhibition on the life and work
the oldest part of the museum of José Saramago (1922–2010),
One of Lisbon’s most striking displays the wagon used to winner of the 1998 Nobel Prize
landmarks, the soaring dome of transport the triumphal arch for Literature, and also hosts
Santa Engrácia punctuates the to Rua Augusta (see p48). concerts, readings and seminars.
skyline in the east of the city.
The original church collapsed in
a storm in 1681. The first stone
of the new Baroque monument,
laid in 1682, marked the
beginning of a 284-year saga
which led to the invention of a
saying that a Santa Engrácia job
was never done. The church
was not completed until 1966.
The interior is paved with
coloured marble and crowned
by a giant cupola. As the
National Pantheon, it houses
cenotaphs of Portuguese
heroes, such as Vasco da Gama The curiously faceted Casa dos Bicos, and surrounding buildings

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