Page 158 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain
P. 158

156      BARCEL ONA


                                               Although the Orfeó is now
                                               based at the more state-of-the-
                                               art L’Auditori on Carrer de
                                               Lepant (see p195), there is a
                                               concert at the Palau nearly
                                               every night; it is the main
                                               venue for the city’s jazz and
                                               guitar festivals, and world
                                               music, flamenco and symphony
                                               orchestras regularly grace its
                                               flamboyant stage.
                                                 The Palau’s new era began
                                               with the completion of the
                                               work carried out by the top
                                               local architect Oscar Tusquets.
                                               An underground concert hall
                                               and an outdoor square for
                                               summer concerts were
                                               added, consolidating the
                                               Palau’s reputation as Barce lona’s
                                               most loved music venue.

                                               w La Llotja
                                               Carrer del Consolat de Mar 2. Map 5
                                               B3. Tel 93 547 88 49.  Barceloneta,
                                               Jaume I. Closed to the public (except
                                               twice a year, days vary).
                                               La Llotja (meaning “commodity
                                               exchange”) was built in the
                                               1380s as the headquarters of
                                               the Consolat de Mar. It was
       Glorious stained-glass dome, Palau de la Música Catalana  remodelled in Neo-Classical style
                                               in 1771 and housed the city’s
       q Palau de la       and other figures at the corner   stock exchange until 1994, the
       Música Catalana     of the building portrays an   original Gothic hall acting as
                           allegory from Catalan folk song   the main trading room. It can still
       Carrer Palau de la Música 4–6.    by Miquel Blay.  be seen through the windows.
       Map 5 B1. Tel 932 95 72 00.      But it is the interior of the     The upper floors housed the
       Urquinaona. Open 10am–3:30pm   building that is truly inspiring.   Barcelona School of Fine Arts
       daily (to 6pm Easter & Jul, 9am–6pm   The auditorium is lit by a huge   from 1849 to 1970, attended
       Aug); and for concerts. & 7 limited.
       8 in English on the hour, 10am–3pm.   inverted dome of stained glass   by Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró.
       ∑ palaumusica.cat   depicting angelic choristers. The   It is now occupied by the local
                           sculptures of composers Wagner  chamber of commerce.
       This is a real palace of music,    and Clavé on the proscenium
       a Modernista celebration of   arch that frames the stage area
       tilework, sculpture and glorious   were designed by Domènech
       stained glass. It is the only   but finished by Pau Gargallo.
       concert hall in Europe lit by   The stunning “Muses of the
       natural light. Designed by Lluís   Palau”, the group of 18 highly
       Domènech i Montaner, it was   stylized, instrument-playing
       completed in 1908. Although    maidens, are the stage’s back-
       a few extensions have been   drop. Made of terracotta and
       added, the building still retains   trencadís (pieces of ceramic),
       its original appear ance. The   the muses have become the
       elaborate red-brick façade is   building’s most admired feature.
       hard to appreciate fully in the     The work of Josep Anselm
       confines of the narrow street.    Clavé (1824–74) in promoting
       It is lined with mosaic-covered   Catalan song led to the creation
       pillars topped by busts of the   of the Orfeó Català choral
       great composers Palestrina,   society in 1891, a focus of
       Beethoven and Bach. The large   Catalan nationalism and the   Statue of Poseidon in the courtyard of
       stone sculpture of St George   inspira tion behind the Palau.  La Llotja
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp564–5 and pp586–8


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