Page 281 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain
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OLD  M ADRID      279

       5 Iglesia de San
       Nicolás de Bari
       Plaza de San Nicolás 1. Map 3 C2. Tel 91
       559 40 64.  Ópera. Open 8:30am–
       1pm, 5:30–8:30pm Mon, 8:30–9:30am,
       6:30–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1:45pm,
       6:30–8:45pm Sun & public hols.
       Groups should call in advance.
       The first mention of the church
       of San Nicolás is in a document
       of 1202. Its brick tower, with
       horseshoe arches, is the oldest
       surviving eccle siastical structure
       in Madrid. It is thought to be
       12th-century Mudéjar in style,
       and may have originally been
       the minaret of a Moorish mosque.

       6 Plaza de Oriente
       Map 3 C2.  Ópera.
       During his days as king of
       Spain, Joseph Bonaparte
       (see p67) carved out this stirrup-
       shaped space from the jumble
       of buildings to the east of the
       Palacio Real (see pp280–81),
       providing the view of the    View of the Catedral de la Almudena and the Royal Palace
       palace enjoyed today.
         The square was once an   and is based on draw ings by   8 Campo del Moro
       important meeting place for   Velázquez. Across the square is   Paseo Virgen del Puerto s/n. Map 3
       state occasions; kings, queens   the imposing Teatro Real, or   A2. Tel 91 454 87 00.  Ópera,
       and dictators all made public   Teatro de la Ópera, inaugu rated   Príncipe Pío. Open Oct–Mar:
       appearances on the palace   in 1850 by Isabel II.  10am–6pm daily; Apr–Sep:
       balcony. The statues of early           10am–8pm daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan,
       kings that stand here were orig-  7 Catedral de la   1 & 15 May, 12 Oct, 9 Nov, 24, 25 &
       inally intended for the palace          31 Dec and for official functions.
       roof, but proved too heavy. The   Almudena   ∑ patrimonionacional.es
       equestrian statue of Felipe IV    C/ Bailén 8–10. Map 3 C2. Tel 91 542
       in the centre of the square is    22 00.  Ópera. Open 9am–8:30pm   The Campo del Moro (the
       by Italian sculptor Pietro Tacca,   daily (10am–9pm Jul & Aug); Museum   “Field of the Moor”) is a pleasing
                           & Dome: 10am–2:30pm Mon–Sat. &   park, rising steeply from the
                           7 ∑ catedraldelaalmudena.es  Río Manzanares to offer one of
                                               the finest views of the Palacio
                           Dedicated to the city’s patron, the  Real (see pp280–81).
                           cathedral was begun in 1883     The park has a varied history.
                           and completed over a century   In 1109 a Moorish army led by
                           later. The Neo-Gothic grey and   Ali ben Yusuf camped here, hence
                           white façade is similar to that of   the name. It went on to become
                           the Palacio Real, which stands   a jousting ground for Christian
                           opposite. The crypt houses a   knights. In the late 19th century
                           16th-century image of the Virgen   it was used as a lavish play-
                           de la Almudena. The dome   ground for royal children. Around
                           offers grand views of the city.  the same time it was land scaped
                             Further along the Calle Mayor   in what is described as English
                           is the site of archaeo logical   style, with winding paths, grass
                           excavations of the remains of   and woodland, fountains and
                           Moorish and medieval city walls.  statues. It was reopened to the
                             The first royal wedding took   public in 1931 under the Second
                           place here between Prince   Republic (see p69), closed again
       Equestrian statue of Felipe IV, by Pietro   Felipe (now King Philip VI) and   under Franco, and not reopened
       Tacca, Plaza de Oriente  Letizia Ortiz in May 2004.  until 1978.
                                    For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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