Page 286 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain
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284      M ADRID


                           fail to liquefy, it is said that   which, for a while, was the
                           disaster will befall Madrid. The   tallest concrete structure in
                           church was rebuilt by Ventura   the world. The most attractive
                           Rodríguez after a fire in 1767.  part of the square is its centre,
                                               occupied by a massive stone
                                               obelisk built in 1928. In front
                           q Plaza de España   of it is a statue of the author
                                               Cervantes (see p337). Below him,
                           Map 1 C5.  Plaza de España.
                                               Don Quixote (see pp398–9) rides
                           One of Madrid’s busiest traffic   his horse Rocinante while the
                           intersections and most popular   plump Sancho Panza trots
                           meeting places is the Plaza de   alongside on his donkey. On
                           España, which slopes down   the left-hand side is Dulcinea,
                           towards the Palacio Real (see   Don Quixote’s sweetheart.
                           pp280–81) and the Sabatini
                           Gardens. In the 18th and
                           19th centuries the square was   w Gran Vía
       Entrance to the Convento de la Encarnación  occupied by military barracks,   Map 2 D5.  Plaza de España, Santo
                           built here because of the
       0 Monasterio de     square’s close proximity to    Domingo, Callao, Gran Vía.
       la Encarnación      the palace. However, further   A main traffic artery of the
                           expansion of Madrid resulted    modern city, the Gran Vía
       Plaza de la Encarnación 1. Map 4 D1.   in its becoming a public space.  was inaugurated in 1910. Its
       Tel 91 454 88 00.  Ópera, Santo     The square acquired its   construction was executed in
       Domingo. Open 10am–2pm,   present appearance during the   three phases, spanned several
       4–6:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun &   Franco period (see pp70–71),   decades and required the
       public hols. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, Easter,    with the construction, on the   demolition of large numbers of
       1 & 15 May, 27 Jul, 9 Nov, 24, 25 &
       31 Dec. & (free Wed and Thu after   northern side, of the massive   run-down buildings and small
       4pm for EU residents). 7 8   Edificio España between 1947   lanes between the Calle de
       ∑ patrimonionacional.es  and 1953. Across the square    Alcalá and the Plaza de España.
                           is the Torre de Madrid (1957),   This road-building scheme
       Standing in a delightful tree-  known as La Jirafa (The Giraffe),   soon became the subject of a
       shaded square, this tranquil
       Augustinian convent was
       founded in 1611 for Margaret
       of Austria, wife of Felipe III. The
       architect, Juan Gómez de Mora,
       also built the Plaza Mayor (see
       p277) and the façade clearly
       reveals his work.
         Still inhabited by nuns, the
       convent has the atmosphere
       of old Castile, with its blue and
       white Talavera tiles, wooden
       doors, exposed beams and
       portraits of royal benefactors.
       Inside is a collection of 17th-
       century art, with paintings by
       José de Ribera and Vincente
       Carducho lining the walls.
       Polychromatic wooden statues
       include Cristo Yacente (Lying
       Christ), by Gregorio Fernández.
         The convent’s main attraction
       is the reliquary chamber with a
       ceiling painted by Carducho. It
       is used to store the skulls and
       bones of saints. There is also
       a phial containing the dried
       blood of St Pantaleon. Accord-
       ing to a popular myth, the
       blood liquefies each year on
       27 July, the anniversary of the
       saint’s death. Should the blood   Stone obelisk with statue of Miguel de Cervantes, Plaza de España
         Night-time traffic on the Gran Vía, seen from the Plaza de España



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