Page 202 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

200  CENTR AL INDIA

d Lucknow

As the Mughal Empire disintegrated, many independent
kingdoms, such as Avadh, were established. Its capital,
Lucknow, rose to prominence when Asaf-ud-Daula, the
fourth nawab, shifted his court here from Faizabad (see p203)
in 1775. The city was also a great cultural centre, and its
nawabs, best remembered for their refined and extravagant
lifestyles, were patrons of the arts. Under them music and
dance flourished, and many buildings were erected. In 1856
the British annexed Lucknow and deposed its tenth and
last nawab, Wajid Ali Shah. This incident helped instigate Sikandar Bagh’s stately gateway, adorned
the Indian Mutiny of 1857, when the city witnessed one of the with the fish emblem
bloodiest episodes in colonial history.
To the west, the Shah Najaf
Imambara has the tomb of Ghazi­
the nawabs’ royal emblem, ud­din Haidar (the sixth nawab).
adorn many of the structures.
Nearby, lie two grand tombs, T Chattar Manzil
the Tomb of Saadat Ali Khan NW of Qaiser Bagh. Open daily.
(the fifth nawab) and the Tomb Built during Saadat Ali Khan II’s
of Khurshid Zadi, his wife. reign (1798–1814), the Chattar
Under Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Manzil (“Umbrella Palace”), derives
Lucknow witnessed an artistic its name from the umbrella­
flowering. An aesthete, who was shaped gilt dome (chattar)
not interested in governance, he crowning the structure. A base­
devoted himself to poetry and ment (tehkhana) was built below
music and is believed to have the level of the Gomti river,
introduced the thumri (a form of so that its waters could keep
light classical music). Dance forms the area cool in the summer. The
benefited as well, and the Lucknow building now houses the state’s
gharana (school) of Kathak (see department of Archaeology.
The Tomb of Khurshid Zadi, p32) reached new heights during
Qaiser Bagh his short reign, before he was T The Residency
deposed by the British in 1856 NW of Qaiser Bagh. Tel (0522) 232
T Qaiser Bagh Palace and exiled to Calcutta (Kolkata). 8220. Open Sunrise–sunset daily. &
Qaiser Bagh. Open daily. ∑ asi.nic.in Picture
Once the most magnificent Y Sikandar Bagh Lucknow’s most haunting Gallery Hussainabad
palace in Lucknow, Qaiser Bagh, Sikandar Bagh. Open daily. monuments are the desolate Clocktower
was built by Wajid Ali Shah Named after Wajid Ali Shah’s ruins of the Residency. This Imambara HUSSAINABAD
Chhota
(r.1847–56), the last nawab. When favourite queen, Sikandar Bagh complex of buildings, which grew Rumi Darwaza Aurangzeb’s
Mosque
the British recaptured Lucknow was the royal pleasure garden of around the large brick home of Jama NAPIER ST Bara MORADABAD
HUSAINABAD TRUST RD
Masjid
in 1858, they demolished many the nawabs. In 1857, British troops the Resident, was an exclusive Imambara Asafi Daligunj
Pul
of the complex’s more fanciful led by Sir Colin Campbell relieved British enclave, protected by Mosque M A H A T M A G A NDH I M A R G
structures, with their florid sculp­ the siege of the Residency at fortifications. In 1857, all the city’s Daulat SH A H M IN A R D
Khana
tures of mermaids and cherubs. this site. The National Botanical British citizens took refuge here M A N K AM ES H W A R M A N D I R RD
However, the remain ing buildings, Gardens and Research Centre during the five­month siege. Sir CHOWK RIA ST N A I B U LL A H ROAD Gomti River
although in ruins, hint at are now located in its grounds. Henry Lawrence, the commander VICTO UNUVERSITY R D Shah Najaf
their former splendour. The The R Imambara
Lal Baradari now houses a Chattar Hanuman Sikander
Setu
Bagh
Manzil
fine arts academy as well as J A G ATNARAYA Residency A N I L A K S H M I B A I M A R G R ANA
Kaisarbagh
the archaeological section of the T U L S I D A S M A R G NA D AN MAH A L R OAD Bus Stand M OTI M A H A L R D
A S H O K A M A R G
State Museum; the Bhatkhande S U B H A S H R O A D Lucknow City N ROA D S A P R U
Railway Station
Music Deemed University is a G WIN R D Qaiser Bagh SH A H NA J AF RO AD P RATAP M ARG
M A R G
HAZRATGANJ
school for Hindustani music; and Palace
the Safaid Baradari, now an GA NGAPRASAD MARG DR B N VARMA RD QAISER
office building, was where the BAGH
nawab, dressed as a fakir, used RANIGANJ DR R K TONDON ROAD Zoo
State
to hold court. Only two wings A H M A D H U S S A I N M A R G Museum
BISHESHWAR NATH ROAD
of the residential quarters that Chaudhary BUD DH A ROAD VIDHAN SABHA MAR G La
Charan Singh
once housed the nawab’s vast Airport Martinière
12 km
harem remain. Carvings of fish, The British Residency before it was destroyed during the siege of 1857 (8 miles)
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709
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