Page 205 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India
P. 205

UT T AR  PR ADESH   &  UT T AR AKHAND      203

                                               g Jaunpur
                                               Jaunpur district. 250 km (155 miles) SE
                                               of Lucknow. * 4,494,204. £ @
                                               Though largely bypassed by
                                               visitors, Jaunpur has a wealth
                                               of medieval Islamic architecture.
                                               Located along the Gomti river,
                                               Jaunpur was established by
                                               Feroze Shah Tughluq (see p95) in
                                               the late 14th century and soon
                                               grew into an important trading
       Colourful Hanuman Garhi Temple in Ayodhya  post. It was subsequently ruled
                                               by the independent Muslim
       f Ayodhya           the mosque, leading to rioting    rulers of the Sharqi dynasty,
                           all over the country. Security   who held sway for much of
       Faizabad district. 127 km (79 miles)
       E of Lucknow. @ (05278) 232 067.    personnel now guard the site.    the 15th century, until Ibrahim
       n Ayodhya Tourist Information   A makeshift temple outside the   Lodi conquered the city in
       Centre, (05278) 232 435. _ Ram   security ring still attracts pilgrims,   1479. It eventually fell to the
       Navmi (Mar/Apr), Kartik Purnima (Oct/  particularly during the full moon   Mughals in the early part
       Nov), Ramayan Mela (Dec/Jan).  night of Kartik Purnima. One of   of the 16th century.
                           the more renowned temples,     Jaunpur’s many rulers each
       Located on the banks of the   among the hundreds of shrines   left a distinct architectural stamp
       Sarayu river, Ayodhya is said to be   on the river bank, is the Hanuman   on the city. The Mughal emperor
       the birthplace of Rama, the divine   Garhi. Built within the walls of an   Akbar built the great Shahi
       hero of the Ramayana (see p31).   old fort, it is dedicated to the   Bridge, which still stands across
       Dozens of temples in this small   monkey god, Hanuman.  the river. To its north is the Old
       pilgrim town com memo rate his          Shahi Fort from the Tughluq
       birth. Whether this is a historical   Environs  era. It contains a mosque, built
       fact or simply part of oral tradition,   Ayodhya’s twin city, lying 6 km    with yellow-and-blue enamelled
       for devout Hindus Ayodhya   (4 miles) to its west, Faizabad   bricks, and an exact replica of
       remains inextricably linked with   has a sizeable Muslim population  a traditional Turkish bath or
       the legend of Rama. As a result,   and was Avadh’s first capital   hamam. The most striking
       when the Mughal emperor Babur   before it was shifted to Lucknow   mosque, the Atala Masjid, just
       built a mosque near the supposed   in 1775. In the town’s centre is   outside the fort, dates to the
       spot of Rama’s birthplace in 1526,   the Jama Masjid, built by the later   Sharqi period. It is embellished
       he left behind a bitterly contested   Mughals, while the 18th-century   with recessed arches and
       site. Known as the Babri Masjid   tomb of Bahu Begum, the wife    ornamental fringes, and square
       (“Mosque of Babur”), it was a   of Shuja-ud-Daula (Avadh’s third   courts surround the central
       long-simmering source of tension   nawab), is an austere structure   structure. Though built on a
       between Hindus and Muslims. In   built in marble. Faizabad has a   grander scale, the 15th-century
       1992, a mob of Hindus tore down   pretty rose garden.  Jama Masjid borrows its basic
                                               architectural inspiration from
                                               the Atala Masjid.
                     The Mango: King of Fruits
                     The mango (aam) is considered the
                     king of tropical fruits and is the best-
                     loved fruit of the country. The Mughal
                     emperor Babur called it the “finest fruit
                     of Hindostan”. The popular paisley motif
                     is derived from the shape of the mango
                     fruit, and mango leaves, considered
                     auspicious, are used as buntings at festive
                     occasions. Of the hundreds of varieties
        Langra mangoes, available   grown all over the subcontinent, few are
        in summer
                     as aromatic and juicy as the mangoes of
                     Jaunpur. The langra is arguably the best
        among the varieties grown here. It is fleshy, juicy and sweet,
        and possessed of a distinct tangy flavour. It sells at a premium
        countrywide and is widely exported to the Middle East and
        Europe. The dussehri from Lucknow, and the chausa from the
        Rampur region, are also popular varieties. The raw chausa is
        considered ideal for spicy chutneys and pickles, without
        which no meal is complete.             Grand façade of the Jama Masjid
                                               in Jaunpur
                                            Locals bathing in the Ganga at sunrise, Varanasi


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