Page 204 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

202  CENTR AL INDIA

Lucknow: The Outer Sites

Some of Lucknow’s best architectural sites lie beyond the city
centre. The religious monuments, such as the imambaras and
mosques, reveal a distinct Persian influence, while the secular
buildings, which include the palaces of the nawabs as well as
colonial structures, are more European in style. A particularly
extravagant example among the latter is La Martinière. The
home and mausoleum of a French adventurer, it later became
a school, serving as the model for St Xavier’s School, which
was immortalized in Rudyard Kipling’s novel Kim.

Close to the Rumi Darwaza European buildings. The most
(see p201), Aurangzeb’s Mosque prominent of these is the
stands on high ground known Asafi Kothi, its elegant façade
as Lakshman Tila, the location marked by semicircular bays.
of Lucknow’s original township. Lucknow’s main market is
To the east is the Hussainabad situated in the Chowk, the
Clock tower, erected in 1887. The city’s atmospheric old quarter. Portrait of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah in the
67-m (220-ft) high Gothic tower Stretching from Gol Darwaza Picture Gallery
was built to mark the arrival of to Akbari Darwaza, this maze of
Sir George Cooper, Avadh’s first narrow galis (lanes) is lined with built by Major General Claude
lieutenant governor. To its west shops selling a range of goods Martin, a French soldier of
lies the 19th-century Baradari, from colourful kites to paan fortune and, in 1793, the
which was built by to Lucknow’s famed richest European in Lucknow.
Muhammed Ali Shah (the chikankari – fine muslin A fanciful Gothic château, it has
eighth nawab), and is delicately embroidered four enormous octagonal towers.
where the Picture Gallery with thread work. Wholesale The exterior is decorated with
is located. Splendid life- flower markets overflow animals and mythological figures,
sized portraits of the ten with roses and jasmine, and including lions, gargoyles and a
nawabs, painted between attar shops sell tiny bottles female sphinx. One of the two
1882 and 1885, are on of fragrant perfume. The cannons on the terrace was cast
display here. Chowk is also the best by Martin, as was the bronze bell.
To the west of the place to sample some He died in 1800 and is buried
Picture Gallery is the authentic local cuisine in the basement. In 1845, the
Hussainabad Imambara, Alam, Chhota (especially the many building, in accordance with
better known as the Imambara varieties of succulent Martin’s will, became a school for
Chhota Imambara. This kebabs), refined to an boys. The school was evacuated
gem-like structure is surmounted art form by chefs attached to during the siege of Lucknow, but
by a delicate gold dome, and its nawabi households (see p169). reopened a year later.
outside walls are engraved with At the southeastern corner
superb calligraphy. The interiors of the city, situated in the E Picture Gallery
are adorned with gilt-edged Zoological Gardens, is Lucknow’s Open Mon–Sat.
mirrors, ornate chandeliers, silver State Museum. Its collection E State Museum
pulpits and colourful stucco includes rare silver and gold Tel (0522) 223 9588. Open Tue–Sun. &
decorations. The tazias (replica coins, 16th-century paintings,
tombs) and alams (standards), and stone sculpture from the P La Martinière College
used during the Muharram 2nd century BC. Prior permission required from the
festival between March and The extraordinary principal. Tel 094544 69226.
∑ lamartiniere
April, are kept here. The Jama La Martinière stands lucknow.org
Masjid, to the south west is further south. It was
another striking structure, built
by Muhammed Ali Shah in the
early 19th century. Its walls are
heavily ornamented, and its
arches are covered with fine
stucco work.
Northwest of theJama
Masjid, the Daulat Khana was
the palace of Asaf-ud-Daula.
Constructed in the late 1780s,
it includes numerous Indo- Elaborate façade of La Martinière College
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709

202-203_EW_India.indd 202 26/04/17 11:44 am
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Date 12th July 2013
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