Page 307 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

WEST BENGAL & SIKKIM  305

i Pelling is a steep 40­minute hike through
thick forests above Pemayangtse.
West Sikkim district. 143 km (89 miles)
W of Gangtok. @ Gezing, 9 km It has exquisite murals. The ruins
(6 miles) S of city centre, then local of Sikkim’s 17th­century capital,
bus or taxi. n Pelling Information built by the second Chogyal
Centre, 943 463 0876 (mobile); (see p302), are at Rabdentse,
Gangtok Information Centre, (03592) 3 km (2 miles) south of Pelling.
221 634. _ Pemayangtse Festival (Feb/
Mar). Travel permits: required (see p307). Environs
Khecheopalri Lake, 25 km
Situated on a ridge, at an altitude (16 miles) north of Pelling, is an
of 1,859 m (6,100 ft), with excel­ enchanting spot that is sacred
lent views of the peaks and to both Buddhists and Hindus,
glaciers of the Kanchendzonga who come here to make a wish.
Range, Pelling is a fast­growing Seen from above, the lake is
town. It is a convenient shaped like the
base from which to footprint of Buddha. Mani stones being carved at
explore western Though surrounded Tashiding Monastery
Sikkim and embark on by a forest, it does not p Tashiding
treks (see pp306–7). have a single leaf
This is the state’s most floating on its surface, Monastery
beautiful and unspoilt and according to West Sikkim district. 145 km (90 miles)
region, with expanses local belief, a holy W of Gangtok. @ Open daily.
of forest, green river bird swoops down _ Bumchu Festival (Feb/Mar).
valleys, superb Detail of a door, and removes each Travel permits: required (see p307).
trekking trails, and Pemayangste leaf as it falls on
Sikkim’s oldest the water. Built in 1716, Tashiding
monasteries. Pelling is a day’s Monastery stands on the
drive from Gangtok, and summit of a heart­shaped hill,
is accessible from Darjeeling o Yuksam where Guru Padmasambhava
(72 km/45 miles south). West Sikkim district. 162 km is said to have shot an arrow
The main attraction here (101 miles) W of Gangtok. @ and then meditated on the
is the monastic complex of n Pelling Information Centre, spot where it fell. Surrounded
Pemayangtse, built in 1705, 943 463 0876 (mobile); Gangtok by chortens, mani stones (prayer
on a ridge a half­hour’s walk Information Centre, (03592) 221 634. stones), water­driven prayer
from the town. Surrounded by Travel permits: required (see p307). wheels, and the Ratong and
picturesque monks’ quarters Rangeet rivers, with Mount
and outhouses, the austere Yuksam was the first capital of Kanchen dzonga looming
three­storeyed main monastery Sikkim, where the first Chogyal behind the hill, this is a magical
is a treasure house of beautiful of Sikkim was crown ed in 1641 spot. During the annual
thangkas, murals and images, by three learned lamas. A stone Bumchu Festival it attracts large
with a breathtakingly intricate throne and some chortens crowds from all over Sikkim.
model of Zangdopelri, the seven­ (stupas) mark this historic spot. During this festival, sacred
storeyed celestial home of Guru Below it is Kathok Lake. Dubdi water, said to have been put
Padmasambhava (see p143), on Monastery, built in 1701, with into a sealed jar by a 17th­
the top floor. Pemayangtse has its exquisite Buddhist images century Buddhist saint, is mixed
an annual festival, with specta­ and meditation cave, is a steep with river water and distributed
cular masked dances. Sikkim’s half­hour climb above. Yuksam as a powerful blessing to
second oldest monastery, is the starting point for the trek devotees. Miraculously, the
Sangachoeling (built in 1697), to Dzongri (see p306). supply of sacred water never
runs dry, and each year, when
the jar is unsealed, oracle
priests can predict the future
of Sikkim from the water level
in it – too much or too little
water augurs ill for Sikkim’s
peace and prosperity. Tashiding
also has the Thongwa Rangdol
Chorten, a mere glimpse of
which is supposed to wipe
away all sins. The main temple,
rebuilt in 1987, has large
images of the Buddha and
Prayer flags fluttering near Yuksam, the first capital of Sikkim the Bodhisattvas.

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