Page 584 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

582  SOUTH INDIA

1 Dakshina Chitra
Chingleput district. 26 km (16 miles)
S of Chennai. @ Tel (044) 2747 2603.
Open Wed–Mon. & 8 0 =
This heritage village, on the
Coromandel Coast, provides
a fascinating glimpse into
the homes and lifestyles of
the people of South India. The
village features reconstructions
of traditional houses, including,
so far, six from Tamil Nadu,
three from Kerala and one
from Karnataka. The handsome
Chettiar mansion (see p616) on Sculpted relief at Mamallapuram, depicting Bhagiratha’s Penance
view, with its elaborately carved
wooden door, reflects the wealth 2 Mamallapuram of Shiva with his consort, Parvati
of the Chettiar merchant Kanchipuram district. 58 km (36 miles) and sons, Skanda and Ganesha.
community, while the homes S of Chennai. @ n Covelong Rd, Inland from the Shore Temple,
of priests, farmers, weavers and (044) 2744 2232. Open daily. 8 = in the village centre, is the
potters are simple yet elegant 0 _ Dance Festival (Jan/Feb). celebrated bas­relief Bhagiratha’s
structures. Within the complex Penance, also known as Arjuna’s
is an Ayyanar shrine (see p609) The UNESCO World Heritage Penance, or the Descent of the
and an open courtyard, where Site of Mamallapuram (or Ganges. Carved on an immense
folk and classical dance perfor­ Mahabalipuram) was once rock with a natural vertical cleft,
mances and craft demonstrations a major port­city, built in the symbolizing the Ganges, the
are held. 7th century by the Pallava king, panel depicts in great detail
Narasimha Varman I, also known the story of the sacred river’s
Environs as Mamalla, the “Great Wrestler”. descent from the sky (see p167).
Cholamandal Village, 12 km This spectacular site, This divine act,
(7 miles) north of Dakshina Chitra, situated on the Bay made possible by
is an artists’ village established of Bengal, extends the penance of the
in 1966 and the first of its kind in across a boulder­ sage Bhagiratha, is
India. For nature lovers, the strewn landscape and witnessed on the
Crocodile Bank, founded by an comprises rock­cut panel by celestial and
American zoologist, Romulus caves and monolithic semi­celestial beings,
Whitaker, is 15 km (9 miles) south shrines (see pp584–5), ascetics, and animals.
of the village. It includes a snake structural temples The symbolism is best
farm and a cooperative of Irulas, and huge bas­reliefs understood during
a community of rat­catchers. that are considered the monsoon, when
to be the greatest Krishna’s Butter Ball, rainwater flows down
E Cholamandal Village examples of Pallava a natural boulder the cleft and collects
Tel (044) 2449 0092. Open daily. art. The stone­carving in the tank below.
E Crocodile Bank tradition that created these Nearby are the unfinished Panch
Tel (044) 2747 2447. Open Wed–Sun. wonders is still alive in the Pandava Cave Temple, and
& Extra charges for photography. many workshops scattered Krishna’s Butter Ball, a natural
around the village. boulder perched precariously
The spectacular Shore Temple, on a slope.
perched dramatically on a South of Bhagiratha’s Penance
promontory by the sea, has is the Krishna Mandapa, a huge
survived the ravages of time bas­relief showing the god lifting
and erosion. It was built by Mount Govardhan to protect the
Mamalla for Vishnu, while the people from torrential rains, as
two Shiva shrines were added well as performing his tasks
by Mamalla’s successor as a cowherd. The Olakkanatha
Narasimha Varman II, more Temple, above the mandapa,
popularly known as Raja Simha. was once used as a lighthouse.
The temple has a low boundary On the ridge southwest
wall, with rows of seated Nandis of Bhagiratha’s Penance are
surrounding it. Placed inside are three cave temples. The
a reclining Vishnu, a 16­faceted Mahishasuramardini Cave
A colourful sign announcing the entrance polished linga and reliefs of Temple has a graceful portrayal
to the Crocodile Bank Somaskanda – a composite form of Goddess Durga on her lion
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18

582-583_EW_India.indd 582 26/04/17 11:49 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm