Page 293 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan

HOKK AIDO  291

the lake has no inlets or
outlets. The panoramic
view from the crater
rim takes in Mount
Shari to the north, the
Shiretoko Peninsula to
the northeast, and Lake
Kussharo and beyond
to the Akan volcanoes
in the west.
The park’s forests
are home to many
wood peckers, including
the black woodpecker,
other forest birds,
red foxes, sika deer,
Lake Mashu, one of Hokkaido’s most beautiful sights, in Akan National Park red squirrels, and
Siberian chipmunks.
8 Akan National this enormous lake freezes For those interested in
Park over almost entirely in winter geothermal activity, in addition
when the harmonics created
Akan National Park to active Me­Akan, there are
by pressure in the ice make simple outdoor hot­spring
k Memanbetsu (Abashiri), Nakashi­ the lake sound as if it is singing. pools at Akan Kohan, on
betsu, and Kushiro. £ Minami­ Thermal vents keep tiny Lake Akan’s south shore, and
Teshikaga and Kawayu­Onsen stns. portions ice­free; here flocks Wakoto, on Lake Kussharo’s
@ from Kushiro stn. n near Akan of whooper swans remain south shore, steaming
Kohan bus terminal (0154) 67­3200. throughout the winter. sulfuroles on Mount Iou
_ Marimo Festival (3 days in early Oct). Farther east again lies Lake (between Kussharo and Mashu
Mashu, prized as one of the lakes), and “bokke” (small areas
This enormous national park greatest scenic spots in all of bubbling mud) beside Lake
of 905 sq km (350 sq miles) Hokkaido, especially when the Akan. The larger and more
in east­central Hokkaido is weather is kind. The crater’s tourist­oriented spa resorts
possibly the most beautiful in steep internal cliffs rise 200 m of Kawayu and Akan are
Japan. Travel around the park (650 ft), the water of the lake crowded with souvenir
is limited; there are tour buses, is astonishingly clear, and shops selling Ainu carvings.
but cycling, hitching, or rental­
car are all better options.
The western portion, around Ainu Culture
Lake Akan (famed for its bizarre Ainu culture in Japan is believed to have developed its dis tinctive
green spherical algae known characteristics between the 8th and 14th centuries. Physically large,
as marimo) is domina ted by a typically bearded, and often with wavy hair, the Ainu more closely
pair of volcanic peaks: in the resemble Caucasians than Japanese. Their relationship with nature
southeast is the 1,370­m was a powerful one, linked to their direct dependence on it for food,
(4,500­ft) Mount O-Akan clothing, and building materials. Animals they hunted or encountered
while in the southwest is the were often revered as kamui (gods), and killing for food was a necessity
still­active Mount Me-Akan, that invoked rituals to thank the god­spirits. The lives of many animal
at 1,500 m (4,920 ft). The day and bird species were intimately known. Ainu dances, including a crane
hike up Me­Akan from Akan dance, mimic nature, and their crafts include implements and clothing
made from locally available materials
Kohan onsen and down the such as salmon skin and deer antlers.
other side on a well­trodden After the Japanese settled
trail to attractive Lake Onetto Hokkaido in the 1860s, Ainu land was
affords marvel ous views in confiscated and hunting and fishing
any season, but especially rights suppressed. Much of the tra­
in fall. O­Akan is a more ditional orally transferred wisdom
serious hike but also possible disappeared as the Ainu were
in a day. encouraged to “assimilate.” Only
East of Akan, over the recently have many of the old oral
pass toward Teshikaga (a epics or yukars been tran scribed.
spectac ular drive in itself), are Few people now use the language,
splendid views back to the even though there has been
two volcanoes. Farther east something of a revival since 1990.
lies Lake Kussharo, in a huge A traditionally dressed
caldera with a 57­km (35­mile) Ainu man and woman
perimeter. Beautiful all year,
The Strait of Nemuro, with the mountains of the Shiretoko Peninsula in the background

08/08/16 3:09 pm
290-291_EW_Japan.indd 291 Whooper swans on Lake Kussharo in Akan National Park