Page 74 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan
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72      T OK Y O  AREA  B Y  AREA


                                               They sell everything from
                                               dried squid to porcelain tea
                                               cups, as well as delicious –
                                               and cheap – sushi, tempura
                                               and even curry. The outer
                                               market is also packed with
                                               many restaurants and shops.
                                                 Another vestige of the
                                               Tsukiji of old, located near
                                               the Kachidoki Bridge entrance
                                               to the market (where boats
                                               unload their catch), is the
                                               Namiyoke Inari Jinja (Wave-
                                               repelling Fox Shrine). Fisher-
       Kabuki actors performing at the Kabuki-za Theater  men and traders have come
                                               to this shrine for decades to
       2 Kabuki-za Theater  moved to the Toyosu district    pray for safety and prosperity.
                           of Tokyo’s Koto Ward (see p106)
                       Kabuki-za Theatre
                           in 2016.
       4-12-15 Ginza. Map 5 C3. Tel (03)     Despite losing its status
       3545-6800.  Higashi-Ginza stn,    as Japan’s primary seafood
       Toei Asakusa & Hibiya lines. &   wholesaler, the district remains
       ∑ kabuki-bito.jp/eng/contents/  a mecca for lovers of fresh
       theatre/kabukiza.html
                           seafood. The original “outer
                           market” has stayed where it
       Tokyo’s principal theater for   has always been, although    A box of fish from Tsukiji Fish Market
       Kabuki (see p41) opened in   it has perhaps lost a little of
       1889 during the reign of   its gritty, old-world charm and
       Emperor Meiji – a part of   somewhat chaotic atmosphere.   4 Hama-rikyu
       Kabuki’s shift from daytime   The vendors are now mainly   Gardens
       entertainment for the   located in a slick, multi-story,
       Shitamachi masses in    modern building with open     Hama Detached Palace Garden
       Asakusa to a more high-   terraces, where it is still   Map 5 B4. Tel (03) 3541-0200.
       brow art form.      possible to see and taste     Shiodome stn, Oedo line. £
         The building is one of the   many unusual types of freshly   Shinbashi stn, Yamanote line. 4
       oldest surviving examples of    caught fish. Indeed, seafood   see Sumida River Trip. Open
       the use of Western building   lovers won’t be disappointed    9am–5pm. (Last adm 30 mins
       materials and techniques in   as the area still serves some    before closing.) &
       traditional Japanese styles.   of the freshest sushi and
       Almost destroyed by the    seafood that Japan’s capital    Situated where the Sumida
       Allied bombing of 1945, the   has to offer.  River empties into Tokyo
       theater was rebuilt in 1951.     Visitors longing for a less   Bay, this 25-hectare (62-acre)
       Demolished again in 2010,    sterile market experience    garden was built in 1654 as
       the building was then recon-  can enjoy perusing the   a retreat for the shogun’s
       structed; it reopened in March   remaining mom and pop    family, who also hunted
       2013. Performances take place   style shops and stalls that    duck here. America’s former
       most days (see p112).  line the streets and alleys   president, Ulysses S. Grant
                           surrounding the market.    stayed in a villa in the gardens
       3 Tsukiji Fish
       Market
                       Tsukiji Fish Market
       Map 5 C4.  Tsukijishijo stn, Toei Oedo
       line. Open 5am–2pm daily. ∑ tsukiji.
       or.jp/english/accessmap.html
       Formerly the largest fish
       market in the world, Tsukiji
       was once the heart of
       Japan’s thriving seafood
       trade. Originally established
       in 1935, the wholesale “inner
       market” was controversially   Nakajima teahouse in Hama-rikyu Gardens
       For hotels and restaurants see p302 and pp324–6


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