Page 106 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland
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104      SC O TLAND  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                                          GLASGOW      105


                                                                              4 St Mungo          decided to step in with money,
                                                                              Museum of           and with the idea for a more
                                                                              Religious Life      extensive project – a museum
                                                                              and Art             of religious life and art. The
                                                                                                  site chosen was adjacent to
                                                                                                  the cathedral, where the
                                                                              2 Castle St. Tel (0141) 276 1625.
                                                                              Open 10am–5pm Tue–Thu & Sat,   13th­century Castle of the
                                                                              11am–5pm Fri & Sun. 7 8 by   Bishops of Glasgow once
                                                                              appointment. - =    stood. The museum has the
                                                                              ∑ glasgowlife.org.uk/museums  appearance of a centuries­old
                                                                                                  fortified house, despite the fact
                                                                              Glasgow has strong religious   that it was completed in 1993.
                                                                              roots, and the settlement that   The top floor describes the
                                                                              grew to become today’s city   story of the country’s religion
                                                                              started with a monastery   from a non­denominational
                                                                              founded in the 6th        per spective. Both   Glasgow’s medieval cathedral viewed from
                                                                              century AD by a priest    Protestant and   the southwest
                                                                              called Mungo. He died     Catholic versions
                                                                              in the early years of     of Christianity are   5 Glasgow Cathedral
                                                                              the 7th century, and      represented, as well    and Necropolis
                                                                              his body lies buried      as the other faiths of
       The imposing City Chambers in George Square, where a statue of Sir Walter Scott stands atop the central column  underneath Glasgow   modern Scotland. The   Cathedral Sq. Cathedral: Tel (0141)
                                                                              Cathedral. The build­     many, varied displays   552 6891. Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–
       1 Gallery of        social issues, often featuring   was opened in 1888 by Queen   ing itself dates from   Detail from the   touch on the lives of   5:30pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun;
       Modern Art          groups that are marginalized    Victoria. With the elegant pro­  the 12th century, and   St Mungo Museum  communities as   Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat,
                                                                                                                      1–4pm Sun. 7 Necropolis:
                           in today’s society.  portions of the interior decor­  stands on ground       extensive as Glas­
       Royal Exchange Sq. Tel (0141)           ated in marble and mosaic, the   blessed by St Ninian as long   gow’s Muslims, who have had   Open 24hrs daily.
       287 3050. Open 10am–5pm                 opu lence of this building makes   ago as AD 397. The ever­  their own Mosque in the city   ∑ glasgowcathedral.org.uk
       Mon–Thu & Sat, 11am–5pm Fri &    2 George Square   it the most impressive of its    growing num bers of visitors    since 1984, as well as local   As one of the few churches to
       Sun. 7 8 prebook. -                                                                        converts to the Baha’i faith. The
       ∑ glasgowlife.org.uk/museums  City centre. City Chambers: Tel (0141)   type in Scotland.  to the cathedral eventually   escape destruction during the
                           287 4018. Open Mon–Fri, 10:30am &                  prompted plans for an   other floors are given over to   Scottish Reformation (see p48)
       Once the home of Glasgow’s   2:30pm for guided tours. 7 8   3 Provand’s   interpretive centre. Despite the   works of art – among them is   by adapting itself to Protestant
       Royal Exchange (the city’s   Merchants House: Tel (0141) 221 8272.     efforts of the Society of Friends   Craigie Aitchison’s Crucifixion VII,  worship, this cathedral is a rare
       centre for trade), this building   8 by appt (fee payable).   Lordship   of Glasgow Cathedral, however,   which sits alongside religious   example of an almost complete
       dates from 1829 and also   ∑ merchantshouse.org.uk  3 Castle St. Tel (0141) 276 1625.    sufficient funds could not be   artifacts and artworks, such as   original 13th­century church.
           incorporates a late                 Open 10am–5pm Tue–Thu & Sat,   raised. The local auth ority   burial discs from Neolithic     It was built on the site of a
            18th­century mansion   George Square was laid out in   11am–5pm Fri & Sun. ∑ glasgow      China (2,000 BC),   chapel founded by the city’s
             that formerly   the late 18th century as a resi­  life.org.uk/museums                    contempo rary paint­  patron saint, St Mungo, a 6th­
              occupied the site.   dential area, but re  development                                  ings by Aboriginal   century bishop of Strathclyde.
              The local auth ority   during Victorian times conferred   Provand’s Lordship was originally   Australians, and some   According to legend, Mungo
              took over the   its enduring status as the city’s   built as a canon’s house in 1471    excellent Scottish   placed the body of a holy man,
              Exchange just after   focal point. The only building   and is now Glasgow’s oldest      stained glass from the   named Fergus, on a cart yoked
              World War II, and   not to be affected by the later   surviving house – and a museum.   early part of the 20th   to two wild bulls, telling them
              for many years    19th­century makeover is the   Its low ceilings and wooden            century. Further dis­  to take it to the place ordained
               it served as a   Millennium Hotel (1807) on    furnishings create a vivid impres­      plays in the museum   by God. In the “dear green place”
                library. It finally   the north side of the Square.  sion of life in a wealthy 15th­   examine issues of   at which the bulls stopped, he
                opened its     The 1870s saw a building   century house hold. Mary, Queen             fundamental concern   built his church.
                doors as the   boom, with the construction of   of Scots (see p48) may have stayed    to people of all religions     Because of its sloping site, the
                Gallery of   the former Post Office (1876) at   here when she visited Glasgow         – war, persecution,   cathedral is built on two levels.
                Modern Art in   the southeast corner, and the   in 1566 to see her cousin, and        death and the afterlife –   The crypt contains the tomb of St
    Ornate tower of the Gallery   1996. One of   Merchants House (1877) to    husband, Lord Darnley.  and from cultures as far   Mungo, surrounded by an intricate
      of Modern Art  the largest   the west side. The latter                                          afield as West Africa and   forest of col umns springing up to
                contemporary   is home to Glasgow’s                                                   Mexico. In the grounds   end in delicately carved rib­
       art galleries outside London,    Chamber of Commerce.                                          sur rounding the   vaulting. The Blacader Aisle is
       the GoMA is constantly building   Founded in 1781, it is the                                   building, there is a   reputed to have been built over
       on its collection of work by   oldest organ ization of its                                     permanent Zen Garden,   a cemetery blessed by St Ninian.
       Glasgow­based artists.   kind in the UK. The most                                              created by Yasutaro     Behind the cathedral, a like ness
       Accordingly, most of the gallery   dominant structure in                                       Tanaka. Such gardens   of Protestant reformer John Knox
       is home to a lively and thought­  George Square, however,                                      have been a traditional   (see p48) surveys the city from his
       provoking programme of   is the City Chambers on                                               aid to con templation in   Doric pillar, overlooking a Victorian
       temporary exhibitions featuring   the east side. Designed                                      Japanese Buddhist   ceme tery. The necropolis is filled
       work by Scottish and inter­   by William Young in an                                           temples since the   with crumbling monuments to
       na tional artists. Many of these   Italian Renaissance style,          An impressive stained-glass window at   beginning of the    the dead of Glasgow’s wealthy
       focus on contemporary and   the imposing building   Provand’s Lordship, Glasgow’s only medieval house  the St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art  16th century.  merchant families.
       For hotels and restaurants see pp174–5 and pp184–6


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