Page 136 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland

134  SC O TLAND REGION B Y REGION THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS  135

1 Inveraray Castle
Inveraray, Argyll & Bute. 3 Dalmally,
then bus. @ from Glasgow. Tel (01499)
302203. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:45pm
daily (last adm 5pm). & 8 - 7
∑ inveraray-castle.com
This multi-turreted mock Gothic
palace is the family home of the
powerful Clan Campbell, who
have been the Dukes of Argyll
since 1701. Building started in
1746 by architects Roger Morris
and William Adam on ruins of a
15th-century castle. The conical
towers were added later, after The pinnacled Gothic exterior of Inveraray Castle
a fire in 1877.
The magnificent interiors, living space, kitchen and a cattle resemble a Himalayan ravine,
designed by Robert Mylne in shed all under one roof. They nourished by the warmth of the Mist crowning the Paps of Jura, seen at sunset across the Sound of Islay
the 1770s, form a backdrop are furnished with box beds Gulf Stream and the high rainfall
to such treasures as Regency and rush lamps, and edged by of the region. Although unusual into the water. A legend tells of historical interest is the bustles with pleasure craft
furniture, a huge collection herb gardens. Auchindrain is a Himalayan rhododendrons Prince Breackan who was medieval stronghold of the in the summer. The town of
of Oriental and European fascinating memorial to a time flourish here, the gardens are drowned in his attempt to win Lords of the Isles, Finlaggan, Tarbert (meaning “isthmus” in
porcelain and portraits by before the Highland farmers also home to exo tic plants from the hand of a princess. He tried which is under excavation. Gaelic) takes its name from the
Ramsay, Gainsborough and made the transition from sub- Tasmania, New Zealand and the to keep his boat anchored in Islay’s su perb beaches support neck on which it stands, which
Raeburn. The Armoury Hall sistence to commercial farming. US. Great plant collect ors still the whirlpool for three days, a variety of birdlife, some of is narrow enough to drag a boat
contains early weaponry con tribute to the gardens, held by ropes made of hemp, which can be seen at the Royal across, between the waters of
collected by the Campbells to which thrive in late spring. wool and maidens’ hair, until Society for the Protection of Loch Fyne and West Loch
fight the Jacobite rebels. The one rope, containing the hair of Birds (RSPB) reserve at Gruinart. Tarbert. This feat was first
Combined Operations Museum 4 Jura an unfaithful girl, finally broke. achieved by the Viking King
com memor ates the 250,000 E Museum of Islay Life Magnus Barfud who, in 1198,
Allied troops who trained at Argyll & Bute. * 190. g from Port Charlotte. Tel (01496) 850358. was granted by treaty as much
Inveraray during World War II. Kennacraig to Islay, Islay to Jura. 5 Islay Open Apr–Sep: 10:30am–4:30pm Mon– land as he could sail around.
n Jura Distillery, Craighouse (01496) Fri. & 7 ∑ islaymuseum.org Travelling further south past
820385. Distillery: Open 10am–4:30pm Argyll & Bute. * 3,500. g from
2 Auchindrain Mon–Sat (Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon– Kennacraig. n Bowmore (01496) Campbeltown, the B842 road
ends at the headland known as
Museum Fri). ∑ jurawhisky.com 305165. ∑ islayjura.com 6 Kintyre the Mull of Kintyre, which was
Inveraray, Argyll & Bute. Tel (01499) A traditional crofter’s plough at the Barren, mountainous and The most southerly of the Argyll & Bute. * 8,000. 3 Oban. made famous when former
500235. @ Inveraray, then bus. Auchindrain Museum overrun by red deer, the Isle of Western Isles, Islay (pro nounced @ Campbeltown. n Campbeltown Beatle Paul McCartney
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily. Jura has only one road, which “Eyeluh”) is the home of such (01586) 556162. ∑ kintyre.org com mercialized a traditional
& 7 limited. ∑ auchindrain. 3 Crarae Gardens connects the single village of respected Highland single malt pipe tune of the same name.
org.uk Craighouse to the Islay ferry. whiskies (see p36) as Lagavulin A long, narrow peninsula Westward from Kintyre lies
Though hiking is restricted and Laphroaig. Most of the stretching far south of Glasgow, the isle of Rathlin. It is here
Crarae, Argyll & Bute. Tel (0844) 493
The first open-air museum 2210. @ Inveraray, then bus. Open from July to the end of October island’s distilleries produce Kintyre has superb views across that Robert the Bruce learned
in Scotland, Auchindrain Apr–Oct: 9:30am–sunset daily. & 7 during the deer-stalking season heavily peated malts with a to the islands of Gigha, Islay and patience in his constant strug-
illuminates the working lives of 8 by appointment. ∑ nts.org.uk (see p202), Jura offers superb hill distinctive tang of the sea. The Jura. The 14 km (9 mile) Crinan gles against the English by
the kind of farming com munity walking, especially on the slopes Georgian village of Bowmore Canal, which opened in 1801 observing a spider weaving
typical of the Highlands Considered the most beguiling of the three main peaks known has the island’s oldest distillery and has a total of 15 locks, an elaborate web in a cave.
until the late 19th century. of the many gardens of the as the Paps of Jura. The tallest of and a circular church designed
Constituting a township of West Highlands, the Crarae these is Beinn An Oir at 784 m to minimize the Devil’s possible
some 20 thatched cottages, the Gardens (see also pp26–7) were (2,572 ft). Beyond the northern lurking places. The Museum
site was communally farmed by created in 1912 by Lady Grace tip of the isle are the notorious of Islay Life in Port Charlotte
its tenants until the last one Campbell. She was the aunt of whirlpools of Corryvreckan. The contains a wealth of fascinating
retired in 1962. Visitors can explorer Reginald Farrer, whose author George Orwell, who information concerning the
wander through speci mens from Tibet were the came to the island to write his island’s social and natural
the houses, most beginnings of a collection of final novel, 1984, nearly lost his history. Eleven kilo metres
of which combine exotic plants. The gardens now life here in 1946 when he fell (7 miles) east of Port Ellen
stands the Kildalton Cross.
A block of local green stone
adorned with Old Testament
scenes, it is one of the most
impressive 8th-century Celtic
crosses in Britain. Worth a visit
Lagavulin distillery, producer of one of Scotland’s finest malts, on Islay for its archaeological and Sailing boats moored at Tarbert harbour, Kintyre
For hotels and restaurants see pp176–7 and pp187–9

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