Page 137 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland

THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS  135

Mist crowning the Paps of Jura, seen at sunset across the Sound of Islay
into the water. A legend tells of historical interest is the bustles with pleasure craft
Prince Breackan who was medieval stronghold of the in the summer. The town of
drowned in his attempt to win Lords of the Isles, Finlaggan, Tarbert (meaning “isthmus” in
the hand of a princess. He tried which is under excavation. Gaelic) takes its name from the
to keep his boat anchored in Islay’s su perb beaches support neck on which it stands, which
the whirlpool for three days, a variety of birdlife, some of is narrow enough to drag a boat
held by ropes made of hemp, which can be seen at the Royal across, between the waters of
wool and maidens’ hair, until Society for the Protection of Loch Fyne and West Loch
one rope, containing the hair of Birds (RSPB) reserve at Gruinart. Tarbert. This feat was first
an unfaithful girl, finally broke. achieved by the Viking King
E Museum of Islay Life Magnus Barfud who, in 1198,
Port Charlotte. Tel (01496) 850358. was granted by treaty as much
5 Islay Open Apr–Sep: 10:30am–4:30pm Mon– land as he could sail around.
Fri. & 7 ∑ islaymuseum.org Travelling further south past
Argyll & Bute. * 3,500. g from
Kennacraig. n Bowmore (01496) Campbeltown, the B842 road
305165. ∑ islayjura.com 6 Kintyre ends at the headland known as
the Mull of Kintyre, which was
The most southerly of the Argyll & Bute. * 8,000. 3 Oban. made famous when former
Western Isles, Islay (pro nounced @ Campbeltown. n Campbeltown Beatle Paul McCartney
“Eyeluh”) is the home of such (01586) 556162. ∑ kintyre.org com mercialized a traditional
respected Highland single malt pipe tune of the same name.
whiskies (see p36) as Lagavulin A long, narrow peninsula Westward from Kintyre lies
and Laphroaig. Most of the stretching far south of Glasgow, the isle of Rathlin. It is here
island’s distilleries produce Kintyre has superb views across that Robert the Bruce learned
heavily peated malts with a to the islands of Gigha, Islay and patience in his constant strug-
distinctive tang of the sea. The Jura. The 14 km (9 mile) Crinan gles against the English by
Georgian village of Bowmore Canal, which opened in 1801 observing a spider weaving
has the island’s oldest distillery and has a total of 15 locks, an elaborate web in a cave.
and a circular church designed
to minimize the Devil’s possible
lurking places. The Museum
of Islay Life in Port Charlotte
contains a wealth of fascinating
information concerning the
island’s social and natural
history. Eleven kilo metres
(7 miles) east of Port Ellen
stands the Kildalton Cross.
A block of local green stone
adorned with Old Testament
scenes, it is one of the most
impressive 8th-century Celtic
crosses in Britain. Worth a visit
for its archaeological and Sailing boats moored at Tarbert harbour, Kintyre

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