Page 163 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland

THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS  161

@ Cape Wrath and base for Atlantic and Russian
the North Coast convoys during World War II.
The Strathnaver Museum in
Highland. @ g May–Sep (01971) Bettyhill explains the notor ious
511246. n John O’Groats (01955) Sutherland “Clearances” (see
611373.
p154), the forced evictions of
The northern edge of main land 15,000 people to make way for
Scotland spans the full variety sheep. At Rossal, 16 km (10 miles)
of Highland geography, from south, is an arch aeological walk
mountainous moorlands and around an excavated village,
dazzlingly white beaches to flat, which provides information on
green farmland. life in pre­Clearance days.
Cape Wrath is alluring not A gigantic white dome at
only for its name but for its cliffs, Dounreay marks the nuclear
constantly pounded by the reprocessing plant, which is
Atlantic. There are many stacks now being decommissioned
rising out of the sea that swarm and is closed to the public. The
Majestic cliffs on Handa Island, a welcome with seabirds. The lighthouse main town on the coast here is
refuge for seabirds was among the last in Scotland Thurso, a village of solid stone
to be automated in 1998. In buildings. Once famous for its
! Handa Island summer, a mini­bus serves the locally quarried stone slabs, this
13­km (8­mile) road leading to industry died with the advent
Highland. g from Tarbet, near Scourie,
Apr–Aug Mon–Sat, (07780) 967800. n Cape Wrath. In order to reach of cement. Each September,
Scottish Wildlife Trust, (07920) 468572. the bus, you must take the Thurso hosts “Northlands”, the
connecting Cape Wrath Ferry Scottish Nordic Music Festival.
Located just offshore from from the pier by the Cape Wrath John O’Groats is probably
Scourie on the west coast, Hotel, as the cape is cut off by the most famous name on the
this small island is an the Kyle of Durness. At map here, said to be the very
important breeding Durness is Smoo Cave, northerly tip of the mainland,
sanctuary for many an awesome cavern although this is in fact nearby
species of seabirds. hollowed out of Dunnet Head. Apart from a
In past centuries limestone. Smoo quaint harbour where day trips
it was inhabited Innercave Tours leave for Orkney, John O’Groats
by a hardy people, run trips there. Just is a tourist trap. More rewarding
who had their own outside Durness, a are the cliffs at Duncansby Head,
queen and parlia­ community of art ists where you can enjoy the natural
ment. The last 60 has established the ferocity of the Pentland Firth.
inhabitants were Balnakeil Craft
evacuated in 1847 when Village, displaying g Smoo Innercave Tours
their potato crop failed. A nesting pottery, enamelwork, Durness. Tel (01971) 511704.
The island was also used kittiwake wood carving, print­ Open Apr–Oct: daily. &
as a burial ground as it making and paintings. ∑ smoocavetours.weebly.com
was safe from the wolves Astonishingly white beaches E Strathnaver Museum
that inhabited the mainland. follow one after the other along Clachan, Bettyhill. Tel (01641)
The island is now managed the coast, and the road then 521418. Open Apr–Oct: Mon–Sat. &
by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. loops round Loch Eriboll – the 7 limited. ∑ strathnavermuseum.
A walk takes visitors to the deepest of the sea lochs and a org.uk
100­m­ (328­ft­) high northern
cliffs. On the way you are liable
to experience the intimi dating
antics of great and Arctic skuas
(large migratory birds) swooping
low over your head. Early in the
year 11,000 pairs of razorbills can
be found on Handa, and 66,000
pairs of guillemots.
Environs
The highest waterfall in Britain
is Eas Coul Aulin, at 180 m
(590 ft). It is best seen after
rainfall, from a tour boat based
at Kylesku, 24 km (15 miles) to
the south of Handa. Duncansby Head, Caithness, at the far northeast corner of Scotland

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