Page 168 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland

166  SC O TLAND REGION B Y REGION THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS  167

% Western Isles has its headquarters in the main VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
village of Bailivanich. Another
Western Scotland ends with this remote chain of islands, made causeway leads to South Uist, Practical Information
of some of the oldest rock on earth. Barren land scapes are with its golden beaches, which Western Isles. * 28,000. n 26
divided by countless waterways, while the western, windward are renowned as a National Cromwell St, Stornoway (01851)
703088. ∑ visithebrides.com
coasts are edged by white sandy beaches. For centuries, the Scenic Area.
eastern shores, composed largely of peat bogs, have provided Eriskay Transport
~ Stornoway, Benbecula, Barra.
islanders with fuel. Man has been here for 6,000 years, living The interior of a croft house at The One of the smallest and most g from Uig (Skye), Oban, Mallaig,
off the sea and the thin turf, though abandoned monuments, Blackhouse enchanting of the Western Isles, Kyle of Lochalsh and Ullapool.
including a Norwegian whaling station on Harris, attest to the Eriskay epitomizes their peace
difficulties faced in commercializing traditional local skills. The Uists and Benbecula and beauty. The island is best that separate sub species of
known for the wrecking of the
After the dramatic scenery of
Gaelic, part of an enduring culture, is widely spoken, and Harris, the lower­lying, largely SS Politician in 1941, which mouse and wren have evolved.
most signs are in both English and Gaelic. waterlogged southern isles may inspired the book and film Tours are run by Westernedge
seem an anticlimax, though Whisky Galore. A bottle from its St Kildan men with their catch of seabirds Charters and Island Cruising.
they nurture secrets well worth cargo and other relics can be Volunteers can occasionally pay
discovering. Long, white, sandy seen in Eriskay’s only bar. It was St Kilda to join summer work parties on
beaches fringe the Atlantic at the beautiful beach of Coilleag These “Islands on the Edge of the the island, run by the National
coast, edged with one of A’Phrionnsa (Prince’s beach) that World” were the most isolated Trust for Scotland, owners of the
Scotland’s natural treasures: the Bonnie Prince Charlie first set habitation in Scotland until the St Kilda World Heritage Site.
lime­rich soil known as machair. foot on Scotland at the start of ageing population requested to
During the summer months, the his 1745 campaign. As a result, a be evacuated in 1930. The St g Island Cruising
soil is covered with wild flowers, rare convolvulus flower that Kildans developed a unique life­ 1 Erista, Uig, Isle of Lewis. Tel (01851)
the unique fragrance of which grows here has become style based on harvesting sea­ 672381. ∑ island­cruising.com
can be detected far out to sea. associated with him. birds. The largest gannetry in the g Westernedge Charters
From Lochmaddy, North Uist’s world (40,000 pairs) is now found Isle of Lewis. Tel (01851) 705965.
The monumental Standing Stones of Callanish in northern Lewis main village, the A867 crosses here. There are three islands and ∑ westernedge.co.uk
5 km (3 miles) of causeway to three stacks of awe some beauty,
Lewis and Harris for local weavers of the tough Benbecula, the isle from which each with soaring cliffs rising } St Kilda World Heritage Site
Forming the largest landmass Harris Tweed. Some weavers the brave Flora MacDonald sheer to 425 m (1,400 ft) at their Tel (01463) 232034. «
of the Western Isles, Lewis and still use indigenous plants to smuggled Bonnie Prince Charlie highest. Such is their isolation ∑ kilda.org.uk
Harris are a single island, though create the various dyes. From to Skye (see p157). Benbecula is a
Gaelic dialects differ between Leverburgh, on Harris’s south ern flat island covered by a mosaic of Crofting
the two areas. From the admini­ tip, a ferry sails to North Uist, small lochs. Like its neigh bours, it Blue waters off the coast of Barra, looking
strative centre of Stornoway, linked by a causeway to Berneray. is known for good trout fishing. east to the Isle of Rum Crofts are small parcels of agricultural land, worked in con junction
with its bustling harbour and Here, and to the north, the with another source of income as they are too small to provide total
colourful house fronts, the E The Blackhouse Protestant religion holds sway, Barra subsistence. They originated in the early 1800s when landlords made
ancient Standing Stones of Arnol. Tel (01851) 710395. while Catholicism prevails in the The dramatic way to arrive on available units of poor land on the coast, clearing the people from
Callanish are only 26 km (16 Open Apr–Sep: Mon–Sat; Oct–Mar: southern islands. Benbecula’s Barra is by plane – the airstrip the more fertile areas, and making them dependent on wages from
miles) to the west. Just off the Mon, Tue & Thu–Sat. & 8 chief source of employment is is a beach and the timetable either fishing or collecting kelp (seaweed used to make commercial
road on the way to Callanish ∑ historicenvironment.scot the Army Rocket Range, which depends on the tide. Barra is alkali). When these sources of income diminished, crofters endured
are the cone­shaped ruins of a pretty island, with its central over 50 years of extreme hardship through famine, high rents,
Carloway Broch, a Pictish (see core of hills and circular road. eviction and lack of security. Not until 1886 was an Act passed which
gave crofters security and allowed families the right of inheritance
p45) tower over 2,000 years old. The western side is almost all (but not ownership). Today there are 17,000 registered crofts, almost
The more recent past can be beaches. Over 1,000 species of all in the Highlands and islands. Governed by special regulations
explored at Arnol’s Blackhouse flowers have been recorded. prohibiting the creation of new crofts, the crofters are eligible for
– a showcase of crofting life as it The view over Castlebay from special grants. Most crofters raise sheep, but recent trends are tree
was until 50 years ago. the Madonna and Child statue, planting and providing habitats for rare birds. Crofting remains a vital
South of the rolling peat on top of Heaval hill, is partic­ part of Highland communities.
moors of Lewis, a range of ular ly fine. The romantic Kisimul
mountains marks the border Castle, set on an island, is the
with Harris, which is entered by 15th seat of the Clan MacNeil. It
passing Aline Lodge at the head is currently being restored. Other
of Loch Seaforth. The mountains attrac tions are the Barra Heri­
of Harris are a paradise for hill tage Centre and a golf course.
walkers. From their summits
on a clear day, the distant isle + Kisimul Castle
of St Kilda can be seen 80 km Tel (01871) 810313. Open Apr–Sep:
(50 miles) to the west. daily. & includes boat trip.
The ferry port of Tarbert stands ∑ historicenvironment.scot
on a slim isthmus sepa rating n Barra Heritage Centre
North and South Harris. The Tel (01871) 810413. Open May–Sep: A traditional, thatched crofter’s house on the island of North Uist
tourist office provides addresses The harbour at Stornoway, the principal town on Lewis and Harris Mon–Sat. 7 ∑ barraheritage.com
For hotels and restaurants see pp176–7 and pp187–9

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