Page 164 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland

162  SC O TLAND REGION B Y REGION THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS  163

£ Orkney Islands Hoy Centre contains a fascinating VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Orkney’s second-largest island exhibition on this huge deep-
Beyond the Pentland Firth, less than 10 km (6 miles) off takes its name from the Norse water naval haven. It recounts Practical Information
the Scottish mainland, the Orkney archipelago consists of word for “high island”, which the events of 16 June 1919, Orkney. * 21,000.
n Kirkwall (01856) 872856.
some 70 islands and rocky skerries boasting the densest refers to its spectacular cliff- when the captured German ∑ visitorkney.com
concentration of archaeological sites in Britain. Today, only lined terrain. Hoy is very fleet was scuttled on the orders
different from the rest of the
of its commanding officer to
about 16 of these islands are permanently inhabited. Orkney’s archipelago, and its northern prevent handover: 74 ships Transport
~ g from Scrabster or Gill’s Bay
way of life is predominantly agricultural – it’s said that, hills make excellent walking and were sunk. Many of these have (Caithness), Aberdeen, Lerwick
whereas the Shetlanders are fishermen with crofts, the birdwatching country. The Old since been salvaged; others (Shetland), and John O’ Groats
Orcadians are farmers with boats. The climate is tempered by Man of Hoy, a 137-m (450-ft) provide one of the world’s great (May–Sep only).
the Gulf Stream, and the rich soils overlying old red sandstone vertical stack off the western wreck-diving sites. Tours from
coast, is the island’s best-known
Houton Pier, using a remote-
produce lush green turf and summer crops of grain.
landmark, a pop ular challenge controlled vehicle fitted with towered church dedicated to
The delightfully frescoed Italian Chapel, in to keen rock climbers. Near an underwater camera, give his memory is a rare example of
Kirkwall West Mainland East Mainland Rackwick, the 5,000-year-old a glimpse of this eerie sub- Irish-Viking design. Sanday is
The winding flagstoned streets Many of the waterfront build- Dwarfie Stane is a unique aquatic graveyard. the largest of the northern isles,
of Orkney’s capital are lined with ings in Stromness, the main E Pier Arts Centre chambered cairn cut from its fertile farm land fringed by
period houses and craft shops. town on Orkney’s largest island, Tel (01856) 850209. Open 10:30am– a single block of stone. n Scapa Flow Visitor Centre sandy beaches. North Ronaldsay,
Opposite St Magnus Cathedral, date from the 18th and 19th 5pm Tue–Sat. ∑ pierartscentre.com At Lyness, on the eastern side Tel (01856) 791300. Open Apr & Oct: the northern most of the Orkney
an 870-year-old masterpiece centuries. Among them, the E Stromness Museum of Hoy, the Scapa Flow Visitor Mon–Fri; May–Sep: daily. 7 Islands, is noted for its hardy,
of red and yellow stone, lie Pier Arts Centre con tains Tel (01856) 850025. Open Apr–Oct: ∑ orkney.gov.uk seaweed-eat ing sheep and
the ruins of the Bishop’s a fine collec tion of daily; Nov–Mar: Mon–Sat. & 7 rare migrant birds.
Palace, dating mostly 20th-century works. The ∑ orkneycommunities.co.uk The Northern Isles
from the 16th century. Strom ness Museum T Maeshowe Orkney’s outlying islands are Day Trips to Remote Islands
Also nearby, in a former traces Orkney’s history Tel (01856) 761606. Open daily. & 7 sparsely populated and mostly There are flights from Kirkwall to
manse called Tankerness as a trading port. T Standing Stones of Stenness the preserve of seals and sea birds. a dozen outlying islands several
House, the excellent West Mainland is and Ring of Brodgar They include Rousay, known as times a week, as well as daily
Orkney Museum renowned for its pre- Open daily. 7 the “Egypt of the North” for ferries. The two-minute hop
illustrates the history historic sites. Said to T Skara Brae its many archaeo logical sites, between Westray and Papa
of habitation on date from around 2750 Tel (01856) 841815. Open daily. & 7 and Egilsay, the scene of Westray is the world’s shortest
the islands. South of Orcadian man BC, Maeshowe is a - = ∑ historicenvironment.scot St Magnus’s grisly murder in scheduled air route. Inter-island
the town centre, the on a bicycle chambered tomb 1115. The 12th-century round- transport is weather-dependent.
Highland Park aligned with the
Distillery dispenses a fine dram winter solstice. Vikings East Mainland
at the end of its guided tours. plundered it around 1150, East of Kirkwall, the road runs The Old Man of Hoy, a majestic stone
leaving a fascinating legacy through quiet agricultural land column off the coast of Hoy North
R St Magnus Cathedral of runic graffiti on the walls. over a series of causeways Papa Ronaldsay Hollandstoun
Westray
Tel (01856) 874894. Open Mon–Fri (daily Nearby are the huge Standing linking the southernmost Pierowall The North
in summer). 8 ∑ stmagnus.org Stones of Stenness and the islands to Mainland. The Key Westray Sound
P Bishop’s Palace Ring of Brodgar, a megalithic Churchill Barriers were built by Major road Start Point
Tel (01856) 871918. Open Apr–Oct. & henge of 36 stones. The Neo- Italian prisoners of war during Minor road Westray Sanday
lithic village of Skara Brae the 1940s to protect the British Firth Braeswick
P Orkney Museum was discovered when a storm fleet stationed in Scapa Flow. In Summit Rousay Eday
Tel (01856) 873535. Open Mon–Sat. stripped dunes from the site their spare time, these POWs Wasbister
∑ orkney.gov.uk Egilsay Whitehall
in 1850. Beneath the sands also constructed the Brinyan
 Highland Park Distillery lay wonderfully preserved remarkable Italian Chapel, Marwick Head Redland Gairsay Stronsay Stronsay
Firth
Tel (01856) 874619. Open Apr: Mon– evidence of everyday life in whose beautiful frescoed Mainland Twatt Rothiesholm
Fri; May–Sep: daily; Oct–Mar: Mon–Fri the Stone Age, such as beds, interior is well worth seeing. Skara Brae Balfour Shapinsay
pm only. 8 (includes tasting). & 7 fireplaces and shelves. On South Ronaldsay, the 5,000- Ring of Brodgar Finstown Sandgarth Auskerry
The cliffs of Marwick year-old Tomb of the Eagles was Standing Stones of Stenness Maeshowe Kirkwall
Head, overlooking excavated by a local farmer. Some Stromness
Birsay Bay, are one of 340 burial sites were unearthed Gritley
several RSPB reserves at this clifftop location, along Ward Hill Scapa Flow Copinsay
St Mary's
481m
on West Main land, with stone tools and the talons Old Man of Hoy Flotta
home to thousands of of many sea eagles. Hoy Lyness Burray Orkney
Islands
nesting sea birds in early St Margaret's Hope
summer. A memorial R Italian Chapel 0 kilometres 10 Melsetter South Ronaldsay
commemo rates Tel (01856) 781580. Open daily (Mass: 0 miles 10 Burwick
Lord Kitchener and the 1st Sun of month, Apr–Sep). & 7 P e n t l a n d F i r t h Aberdeen
crew of HMS Hampshire, T Tomb of the Eagles Island of Stroma Edinburgh
sunk off this headland Tel (01856) 831339. Open Mar–Oct; Dunnet Head Duncansby Head Glasgow
by a German mine Nov–Feb by appt. & 7 - = Dunnet John O'Groats
The rich-coloured exterior of St Magnus Cathedral in 1916. ∑ tomboftheeagles.co.uk
Thurso
For hotels and restaurants see pp176–7 and pp187–9 For additional map symbols see back flap
162-163_EW_Scotland.indd 162 10/23/17 12:51 PM 162-163_EW_Scotland.indd 163 10/23/17 12:51 PM