Page 120 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna
P. 120

118      VIENNA  AREA  B Y  AREA                                                            MUSEUM  AND   T OWNHALL  QU AR TER      119

       3 Maria-Treu-Kirche                                                    7 Spittelberg       first immigrant           boutiques, all of which
       Jodok-Fink-Platz. Map 1 B5. Tel 40504                                  Pedestrian Area     worker district. Its      keep the cobbled
       25. % Rathaus. @ 13A. v 2.                                             Map 3 B1. % Volkstheater. Amerling­  inhabitants were   streets buzzing into the
       Open for services and by appoint-                                      haus: Open 2–10pm Mon–Fri. Market:   mainly craftsmen,   early hours. It hosts a
       ment. ∑ mariatreu.at                                                   Open Apr–Jun & Sep–Nov: 10am–6pm   merchants and   Christmas market,
                                                                              Sat; Jul & Aug: 2–9pm Sat. 7  servants from     and a regular arts
       Overlooking Jodok-Fink-Platz                                                               Croatia and    Façade detail at No. 20   and crafts market
       and flanked by monastic                                                Spittelberg is the oldest and   Hungary, brought    Spittelberggasse  from April to
       buildings stands the Church                                            most colourful part of the   to work in the court.  November. The
       of Maria Treu. Originally                                              district. In the 17th century,      The charming area was   Amerlinghaus theatre at No. 8
       designed by Johann Lukas von                                           the cluster of streets between   rediscovered in the 1970s and   Stiftgasse serves as the area’s
       Hildebrandt in 1716, and later                                         Siebensterngasse and   the city authorities restored    cultural and community centre
       altered by Matthias Gerl in the                                        Burggasse, and around   the buildings. Today, it is a   and provides a venue for
       1750s, the church didn’t acquire                                       Spittelberggasse, was Vienna’s   district of restaurants, cafés and   exhibitions and events.
       its present form until the 19th
       century, when the elegant twin   The façade of the  Theater in der Josefstadt
       towers were added.
         Inside, there is a splendid,   illustrious history. Founded in   Originally built for Count
       vibrant Baroque frescoed ceiling  1788, it was rebuilt by Joseph   Johann Leopold Donat
       (1752–3) by the great Austrian   Kornhäusel (see p86) in 1822,   Trautson, who was in the
       painter Franz Anton Maulbertsch.  and has been in operation ever   service of Joseph I, the palace
       A chapel immediately to the    since, accommodating ballet,   was acquired in 1760 by Maria
       left of the choir contains an   opera and theatre performances.   Theresa (see pp30–31). She
       altarpiece with a Crucifixion   Beethoven composed his   donated it to the Royal
       dating from about 1774, also   overture The Consecration of    Hungarian Bodyguard that she
       painted by Maulbertsch.  the House for the reopening of   had founded. It has housed the                      No. 10 Stiftgasse has a handsome
         Directly in front of the    the theatre after its renovation,   Ministry of Justice since 1961,   The Amerlinghaus at No. 8 Stiftgasse   façade, decorated with statues.
       church and rising up from    conducting it himself at the   so there is no public access to   was the birthplace of the painter Friedrich
       the square is a Baroque pillar   reopening gala. In 1924, the   the interior.  Amerling. Today it is a cultural centre,
       topped with a statue of the   director Max Reinhardt                   theatre and Beisl (see p201).
       Madonna, attended beneath    supervised its further restoration,   6 Sankt-Ulrichs-
       by statues of saints and angels.   and introduced an ambitious
       Like many such columns in   modern repertoire of comedy,   Platz
       Vienna, it commemorates   classic plays and musicals.  Between Neustiftgasse and Burggasse.              B U R G G A S S E
       delivery from a plague, in this         Map 3 B1. % Volkstheater. @ 48A.
       case the epidemic of 1713.              Ulrichskirche (St Ulrich’s Church):
                           5 Trautson Palace   Tel 523124610. Open for services only.                       S  E
                           Museumstrasse 7. Map 3 B1. %   ∑ stulrich.com      Nos. 18 and 20   S C H R A N K G A S S E  A  S
                           Volkstheater. Closed to the public.                Spittelberg-                G
                                               This tiny sloping square is    gasse are fine             R  G       E
                           Set back from the street next    an exquisite remnant of early   examples of   E        S  S
                           to the Volkstheater is this   Vienna. The dainty Baroque   Baroque           L  B      A
                           elegant Baroque palace,   house at No. 27 is worth    houses.               T  E      G  G      E
                           designed in 1710 by Johann   taking the time to see, and                   I  T      E  R      S  S  No. 29
                           Bernhard Fischer von Erlach    adjoining it is a Renaissance              S  P       B        A     Gutenberggasse
                           (see p149). Most Viennese   house that escaped                                      E  N     G  G   is a delightfully
                           palaces have flat fronts but    destruction by the Turks                           T        E  R    pretty Biedermeier
                           on this one the central bays    during the sieges, most                           G  U      B       building.
                           of the façade jut out. Nor is   probably because the Turkish                              C  H
                           there anything restrained    commander Kara Mustafa                                       I  R
       Ceiling frescoes above the altar in the   about the ornamentation:   pitched his own tent nearby.            K
       Maria-Treu-Kirche   above the cornice and     This house partly obscures
                           pediment is one of the largest   the façade of the Baroque
       4 Theater in der    collections of statuary atop any   Ulrichskirche, built by Josef
       Josefstadt          palace in the whole of Vienna.   Reymund in 1721–4. The
                           This includes a large statue    composer Christoph Willibald                 S I E B E N S T E R N G A S S E
       Josefstädter Strasse 26. Map 1 B5.    of Apollo playing the lyre.   Gluck was married here and
       Tel 427000-300. % Rathaus. @ 13A.      Passing through the entrance   Johann Strauss the Younger
       v 2. Open for performances.   you will see on the left an   was christened.
       ∑ josefstadt.org    immense staircase, with     Handsome patrician houses   Spittelberggasse is the venue    The Witwe Bolte restaurant   No. 9 Spittelberggasse is a
                           carvings of bearded giants   encircle it, of which the   for an arts and crafts market held   used to be an inn in the    beautifully decorated house,
       This intimate theatre (see p230),   bearing its weight, by the Italian  prettiest is No. 2, the Schulhaus.   every Saturday from April to   18th century; legend has it   with skilfully painted trompe
       one of the oldest still standing   sculptor Giovanni Giuliani. This   Elaborately decorated, it dates   November, and daily during    that Emperor Joseph II was   l’oeil windows, dating from the
       in Vienna, has enjoyed an   leads to the ceremonial hall.  from the mid-18th century.   Easter and Christmas.  thrown out of here in 1778.  18th century.




   118-119_EW_Vienna.indd   118                             03/10/17   11:00 am  118-119_EW_Vienna.indd   119                      03/10/17   11:00 am
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.4)
     Date 25th April 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
   115   116   117   118   119   120   121   122   123   124   125