Page 64 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna
P. 64

62      INTRODUCING  VIENNA                                                                              VIENNA  A T  A  GLANCE      63

       Exploring Vienna’s Coffee Houses                                       attend literary readings.                    DIRECTORY
                                                                              The Central and Bräunerhof,   Coffee House Alternatives
       A stalwart of Viennese culture, the coffee house has played            both in the Hofburg Quarter,   There are times when you    Bräunerhof
       many roles over the centuries and continues to attract a loyal         have live piano music.    quite simply just want a good   Stallburggasse 2.
       clientele of locals and visitors alike. It is a place to relax with    The Imperial is part of   cup of coffee – when   Map 5 C3. Live music Sat &
                                                                                                                       Sun afternoons.
       a newspaper or book, enjoy a simple lunch or check your                the hotel of the same    newspapers or a
                                                                                                       table of your own
                                                                              name and also has
       email using the free Wi-Fi. Patrons can enjoy a traditional            live music, as do        are luxuries you can   Central
       coffee, but most places also serve wine, beers and spirits.            the Prückel and          dispense with. On   Palais Ferstel, Herrengasse 14.
                                                                                                                       Map 2 D5 & 5 B2.
       Though no longer unique to Vienna, it is here that the                 Dommayer. The            such occasions you
       coffee house continues to flourish. Vienna also has many               Kleines is, as its name   should keep an eye   Diglas
                                                                                                                       Wollzeile 10. Map 6 D3. ∆
       Café-Konditoreien (see p201).                                          suggests, too tiny to    out for an Espresso
                                                                              offer entertainment,     bar, where you    Dommayer
                                                                              but still draws a        can lean informally   Dommayergasse 1,
                           controversial literary group                       regular crowd.  Coffee house sign  against a counter    Hietzing. ∆ Live music first
       The History of the    Jung Wien met regularly at                                                and order coffee at    Sat of month.
       Coffee House        the Griensteidl, while the   The elegant wood-panelled interior of          a half or a third of
       Legend has it that the first   essayist Peter Altenberg was   Café Schwarzenberg  What to Eat  the price you would normally   Eiles
                                                                                                                       Josefstädter Strasse 2.
       coffee house opened its doors   reputed to have never been             Most coffee houses offer    expect to pay at a coffee    Map 1 B5.
       after the defeat of the Turks in   seen outside his favourite    have ordered you are free to   snacks throughout the day,   house. Another alternative
       1683 (see p28). However,   café, the Central.  occupy your table for as long   simple lunches and occasional   is to head to one of the plentiful   Frauenhuber
       historians insist that     Today, as in the past, the   as you like. A cup of coffee is   specialities, such as pastries,   Konditoreien, which are bakeries   Himmelpfortgasse 6.
       coffee was drunk in the   Ministerium, Museum,   not cheap, but entitles you to   which are served at particular   that serve cakes with coffee    Map 4 E1 & 6 D4.
       city long before this   Frauenhuber, Raimund, Eiles,   linger for an hour or two and    times of day. The Hawelka   and other drinks.  Griensteidl
       date. Coffee houses took   Schwarzenberg and Zartl   to read the newspapers or use   serves hot jam-            Michaelerplatz 2.
       the form we know today   continue to attract their   the free Wi-Fi. The grander   filled buns                  Map 2 D5 & 5 B3.
       in the late 18th century.   own specific clientele.  coffee houses, such as the   (Buchteln) late
       They reached their                      Landtmann and Central, will    at night, and the                        Hawelka
                                                                                                                       Dorotheergasse 6.
       heyday in the late                      have a selection of foreign    Sperl often has                          Map 2 D5 & 5 C3.
       19th century, when      Inside the      newspapers available for you    fresh strudel late
                                Coffee House
       they were patronized                    to browse through.             morning. Larger                          Imperial
       by cliques of like-      Service inside the                            coffee houses,                           Hotel Imperial, Kärntner
       minded politicians,       coffee house is                              such as Diglas,                          Ring 16. Map 4 E2 & 6 D5.
       artists, writers,        simple yet formal. A   Coffee House           Landtmann                                ∆ Live music.
                                               Entertainment
       composers, doctors      waiter, formally dressed                       and Bräunerhof,                          Kleines
       or civil servants. In    however shabby the   Coffee houses often function    offer extensive                   Franziskanerplatz 3.
       1890, for instance, the   coffee house, will    as local clubhouses. At the Sperl   lunchtime menus             Map 6 D4.
                               take your order, which   you can play billiards, at the   and a range of
          18th-century Viennese girl   will often be served with   Prückel there are bridge tables,   excellent pastries   Landtmann
           holding a coffee grinder  a glass of water. Once you   and at the Dommayer you can   made on site.  Old Viennese coffee machine in Diglas  See p133. ∆
                                                                                                                       Ministerium
                                                                                                                       Georg-Coch-Platz 4.
        Types of Coffee                                                                                                Map 2 F5 & 6 F3. ∆
        Just as the coffee house is a Viennese institution, so too are the                                             Museum
        extraordinary varieties of coffee that are available. Just asking for                                          Friedrichstrasse 6.
        a cup of coffee in Vienna will not always guarantee a result, as the                                           Map 4 D2. ∆
        Viennese are exceedingly particular about how they take their
        coffee; over the centuries they have devised their own specific                                                Prückel
        vocabulary to convey to the waiter precisely how they like their       Pharisäer: strong black, with   Schlagobers: strong black   Stubenring 24. Map 6 F3.
        beverage served. The list that follows will cover most variations of   whipped cream on top, served   coffee served with either   ∆ Live music evenings.
        the Viennese cup of coffee, although you may well find local ones.  Türkischer: plain, strong black   with a small liqueur glass of rum.  pouring or whipped cream.  Raimund
                                                 Turkish coffee served in the                                          Museumstrasse 6.
        Brauner: coffee with milk (small or large).  traditional manner.                                               Map 3 B1.
        Melange: a blend of coffee and hot milk.
        Kurz: extra strong.                                                                                            Schwarzenberg
        Obers: with cream.                                                                                             Kärntner Ring 17.
        Mokka: strong black coffee.                                                                                    Map 6 D5.
        Kapuziner: double Mokka with a hood of cream
        and a dusting of cocoa powder.                                                                                 Sperl
        Schwarzer: black coffee (small or large).                                                                      Gumpendorfer Strasse 11.
        Konsul: double Mokka with a dash of cream.                                                                     Map 3 A4. ∆
        Koffeinfreier Kaffee: decaffeinated coffee.  Espresso: strong black coffee                                     Zartl
                                                 made by machine. Ask for it   Einspänner: large glass of coffee   Kaisermelange: black coffee   Rasumofskygasse 7,
                                                  gestreckt for a weak one.    with whipped cream on top.  with an egg yolk and brandy.  Landstrasse.
   062-063_EW_Vienna.indd   62                              03/10/17   11:12 am  062-063_EW_Vienna.indd   63                       03/10/17   11:12 am
   59   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69