Page 90 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna

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Whiteread’s Holocaust earlier curator, Rudolf Kaftan, end of the threat of Swedish m Peterskirche
memorial, the Museum while others belonged to invasion during the Thirty Petersplatz 6. Map 2 D5 & 5 C3.
Judenplatz at No. 8 the novelist Marie von Ebner- Years’ War (see p27). Tel 53364330. % Stephansplatz.
and the excavated Eschenbach. On the first floor There are a number of @ 1A. Open 7am–8pm Mon–Fri,
remains of the medieval are displayed the mechanisms interesting houses around the 9am–9pm Sat, Sun & hols.
synagogue that lie of tower clocks from the 16th square. Opposite the church
beneath the square. century onwards, alongside is the palatial Märkleinisches A church has stood here since
The museum celebrates painted clocks, grandfather Haus, which was designed by the 12th century, but the oval
the vibrant Jewish clocks and pocket watches. Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt structure you see today dates
quarter that was On the other floors are huge (see p154) in 1727. Its elegant from the early 18th century. It
centred on the square astronomical clocks and a wide façade was wrecked by the was modelled on St Peter’s in
until the expulsion of range of novelty timepieces. addition of a fire station on Rome and a number of architects
the Jews in 1421, an A major highlight is the the ground floor in 1935 (it collaborated on the design,
event gleefully recorded astronomical clock by David now houses the Vienna notably Gabriele Montani. The
in an inscription, Zum Cajetano, dating from the 18th Fire Brigade Museum). The interior is amazingly lavish,
Grossen Jordan, on century. It has over 30 readings 16th-century red house next culminating in an exuberant,
the façade of No. 2. It and dials that show, among Sculpture on top of No. 10 Am Hof door is the headquarters of eye-catching pulpit (1716) by
also houses a public other things, the dates of solar Johann Kattus, a producer the sculptor Matthias Steindl.
database of the 65,000 and lunar eclipses. Other exhibits b Kirche am Hof of sparkling wine. No. 10, The richly clothed skeletons on
Austrian Jews killed by date from the Biedermeier and Schulhof 1. Map 2 D5 & 5 C2. designed by Anton Ospel, the right and beneath the altar
Holocaust memorial in Judenplatz the Nazis. belle époque periods. Tel 5338394. % Herrengasse. is the Bürgerliche Zeughaus, are the remains of early Christian
At every full hour the three Open 7am–noon, 4–6pm daily. 7 the citizens’ armoury, where martyrs originally deposited in
x Judenplatz floors of the museum resound the city’s fire services are now the catacombs in Rome. The
c Clock Museum
Map 2 D5 & 5 C2. % Stephansplatz, to the incredible sound of This Catholic church, which is based. The façade is dominated frescoes inside the huge dome,
Herrengasse. @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Museum Schulhof 2. Map 2 D5 & 5 C2. clocks striking, chiming and dedicated to the Nine Choirs by the Habsburg coat of arms depicting the Assumption of
Judenplatz: Tel 535 04 31. Open Tel 5332265. % Stephansplatz. @ 1A, playing. All are carefully of Angels, was founded by and military emblems. The the Virgin, are by J M Rottmayr.
10am–6pm Sun–Thu, 10am–2pm Fri. 2A, 3A. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. maintained to keep the Carmelite friars in the late allegorical statues above are In 1729 Lorenzo Mattielli
Closed on main Jewish holidays. & Closed 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec. & (free correct time. 14th century. The façade by Lorenzo Mattielli. designed the sculpture of
7 except to synagogue. 8 free, for under-19s and 1st Sun of the was redesigned by the Italian At No. 12 the bay-windowed St John Nepomuk to the right
2pm & 5pm Thu & Sun (take month). 7 ∑ wienmuseum.at architect Carlo Carlone in 1662 Urbanihaus, with its iron sign, of the choir. This priest earned
identification). ∑ jmw.at v Kurrentgasse to provide space for a large dates from the 1730s. Next his sainthood by being thrown
You don’t have to be a clock balustraded balcony. The door is the Collalto Palace – into the River Vltava in Prague
Judenplatz was the site of fanatic to enjoy a visit to this Map 2 D5 & 5 C2. % Stephansplatz. church is now used by Vienna’s where Mozart made his first in 1393 after he refused to
@ 1A, 2A, 3A. Grimm bakery:
the Jewish ghetto in medieval fascinating museum. Located Open 7am–6:30pm Mon–Fri, large Croatian community. public appearance aged just reveal the secrets of the
times. At the centre of the in the beautiful former Obizzi 8am–1pm Sat. It is worth taking a walk six (see p40). confessional to King
square stands a statue of Palace (1690), the museum behind the church into Wenceslas IV; his
the German playwright and contains a fine collection of This narrow street is shaded by Schulhofplatz to look at the martyrdom
critic Ephraim Lessing by clocks and gives visitors a tall, elegant Baroque houses, tiny restored shops which by drowning
Siegfried Charoux. The Nazis comprehensive account their lower floors occupied by stand between the buttresses later became
did not like a tribute to of the history of cosy bars and pricey Italian of the Gothic choir. a favourite
a writer whose works chronometry through restaurants. It’s a pleasant place subject of
plead for toleration the ages, and of clock to while away an afternoon. The artists.
towards Jews, and they tech nology from the Grimm bakery at No. 10 is one n Am Hof
destroyed it in 1939. 15th century through of the best in Vienna, selling an Map 2 D5 & 5 C2. %
It was later redesigned to the present day. aston ishing variety of breads. Stephansplatz, Schottentor.
by the same sculptor There are more No. 12, a house dating from @ 1A, 2A, 3A.
and reinstated in the than 3,000 exhibits, 1730, has an attractive pink
square in 1982. Lavish specimen in some of which were cobbled courtyard filled with This is the largest enclosed
In 1996 British artist the Clock Museum accumulated by an numerous plants and trees. square in Vienna, as well
Rachel Whiteread was as the oldest. The Romans
the controversial winner of established a garrison here
a competition to design a and, later, the Babenberg
monument for the Jewish ruler Duke Heinrich II
victims of the Nazi regime, Jasomirgott built his castle
to be unveiled in the square close to where No. 2
on 9 November 1999, the Am Hof stands. At the
anniversary of Kristallnacht. centre of the square
A heated public debate ensued is the Mariensäule
and, following many changes, (Column of Our Lady),
including the repositioning of a monument that
the monument by one metre, commemorates the
Judenplatz was reopened on
25 October 2000 as a place of 18th-century engraving of
remembrance. It now contains One of the many fascinating exhibits in the Clock Museum Peterskirche

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