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VILNIUS      243


                           Jewish Vilnius

        Until it was eliminated during the Holocaust, Jewish Vilna, or Vilnius, was home to a large,
        influential Jewish com munity. About 250,000 Jews lived in Lithuania at the turn of the
        19th century, compared to just 4,000 today, and 40 per cent of Vilnius’s population was
        Jewish. By the early 19th century, Vilnius had emerged as a major centre of Jewish
        learning and bustled with life. The religious customs of the Litvaks, as Lithuanian Jews
        are known in Yiddish, were marked by a rigid analysis of the Talmud, the Jewish laws and
        traditions. As a result, other Jewish com mu nities in Eastern Europe saw the Vilna Jews as
        being old-fashioned and staunch intellectuals. Decimated by World War II and ravaged
        further by the Soviets, Jewish Vilna is a ghostly reminder of a vanished world.
















                                Jewish Vilna before World War II had its cobbled lanes
                                crowded with artisans’ workshops and cafés. A maze of
                                courtyards and passages that lay around Vokiečių and
                                Žydų streets, concealed synagogues and prayer houses.

        The Great Synagogue, built in 1572,
        was restored with an Italian Renaissance    Vilnius Choral
        interior by Glaubitz. The Soviets           Synagogue was the
        destroyed the remains of the Jewish         only synagogue in the
        quarter after World War II, broadening      country to survive
        Vokiečių Street and bull dozing this awe-   World War II. Located on
        inspiring building.                         Pylimo Street 39, it
                                                    started functioning in
                                                    1903. Although it was
                                                    smaller in scale and
                                                    simpler in design
                                                    than Vilnius’s other
                  Elijah Ben Solomon                synagogues, the Choral
                   (see p40), known as Vilna        Synagogue has an
                    Gaon, or “genius”, was          enchanting interior.
                    a leading Talmud
                    scholar who wrote
                    extensive commen-
                    taries on ancient
                    Hebrew books. He
                    advo cated an
                     empiri cal study of
                    religious scriptures
                    over mysticism.
              A map of Vilna Ghetto is shown on the
              wall at Rūdininkų 18. The ghetto is where
             the Jews of Vilnius were imprisoned during
             World War II, and the wall marks the place
                   where its only gate once stood.





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