Page 195 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 195

Must See

          Decorated buildings, one
          an Art Nouveau marvel,
              in the Old Quarter


       south lies the Igreja das
       Carmelitas, its nave and
       chancel decorated with
       paintings of the life of the
       Carmelite reformer, St Teresa.


       3 "
       Museu de Aveiro
       ⌂ Ave Santa Joana Princesa
       § 234 423 297   # 10am–
       12:30pm, 1:30–6pm Tue–  Denied access to the sea,   dunes and woods as well
       Sun   ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, Easter
       Sun, 25 Dec         Aveiro declined, its population   as the lagoon, and is home
                           cut down by the fever bred in   to a large and varied bird
       The former Mosteiro de Jesus   the stagnant waters. It was   population, including pintails
       is full of mementoes of Santa   not until 1808 that the barra   and gos hawks. Of the boats
       Joana, who died here in 1490.   nova was created, linking   seen here, the most elegant
       The daughter of Afonso V,   Aveiro once more to the sea.  is the moliceiro. Despite the
       Joana retreated to the convent    The lagoon that remains   bright, often humorous
       in 1472 and spent the rest of   covers some 65 sq km     decoration on its high, curving
       her life here. She was beatified   (25 sq miles), and is nearly    prow, this is a working boat,
       in 1693 and her ornamental   50 km (30 miles) long, from   harvesting moliço (seaweed)
       Baroque marble tomb is in the  Furadouro south past Aveiro’s   for fertilizer. Chemical
       lower choir. The 18th-century   salt pans and the Reserva   fertilizers have drastically
       paintings in the chapel show   Natural das Dunas de São   cut demand for moliço, but a
       scenes of her life. This was   Jacinto (Nature Reserve of São   few of the stately craft survive;
       once the needlework room   Jacinto) to Costa Nova. The   the Festa da Ria in July is a
       where Santa Joana died.   reserve includes beaches,   chance to see them in full sail.
       Among the Portuguese
       primitive paintings is a 15th-
       century full-face portrait of               Aveiro Lagoon
       the princess in court dress.
         Other interesting things to    Canal de São Roque  Ria de Aveiro
       see in this museum include                  São Jacinto
       the superb gilded chancel                          Gafanha
       (1725–9), the 15th-century   PARQUE DOS REMADORES OLIMPICOS  RUA DOM  da Nazaré
                                     Ponte dos
       cloisters and the refectory,   Botirões  JORGE LENCASTRE  Praia da  Aveiro
                                                    Barra
       which is decorated in local        OLD
       Coimbra tiles. Between the    CAIS DOS BOITRÕES QUARTER  0 kilometres  5
       refectory and chapterhouse   RUA DOS ARRAIS  0 kilometres  5
                             RUA ABEL RIBEIRO
       lies the Gothic tomb of an   CAIS DAS FALCOEIRAS CAIS DOS MERCANTÉIS  R. DAS SALINEIRAS
                                            R. SARGENTO
       armoured knight, Dom João   R. DAS VELAS  CLEMENTE DE MORAIS
       de Albuquerque.             LARGO DO  Mercado          Railway Station
                                                                 (1 km)
                             RUA DE JOÃO  ROSSIO  PRAÇA DO do Peixe  R. D. CARRANCHO R. JOSÉ ESTÉVÃO    AV ENI DA D O UTOR
                              AFONSO DE
                               AVEIRO
                                       PEIXE
       4                        Jardim do Rossio        LOUR EN ÇO P EI XI N HO
                                    RUA DO DOUTOR
                                    B. DE MAGALHÃES
       Ria de Aveiro        Canal das Pirâmides  Canal Central   PRAÇA GENERAL  RUA DE  HOMEM CRISTO
                                           R. JOÃO MENDONÇA
                                 R U A   D O   CLUBE DOS G A LI TOS  DELGADO  FORUM
                                                 HUMBERTO
       Old maritime charts do not                   Misericórdia  AVEIRO
       show a lagoon here, but in             PRAÇA DA
                                              REPÚBLICA
       1575 a terrible storm raised a   R. DE J. RABUMBA  Paços do  C AÇADORES 10
       sand bar that blocked the   Jardim do  R. DA LIBERDADE  R . BELÉM                    DO  PARÁ  Catedral de
                                                          R . BATALHÃO  DE
                                            Concelho
       harbour to create the lagoon.   Alboi                 São Domingos
                             0 metres   200  N
                                                  RUA  DE  COIMBRA
                                                           Museu de
                             0 yards   200                   Aveiro
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