Page 196 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 196

EXPERIENCE  The Beiras








               A boat on the Mondego
                   river passing the
                   town of Coimbra

        2                                       celebration in stone of the
                                                triumph over the Moors in
          COIMBRA                               1064. Sancho I was crowned
                                                here in 1185, soon after the
                                                cathedral was completed.
                                                  Inside, square piers lead
        ! E3   £ Coimbra A, Av Emídio Navarro; Coimbra B, N of city,
        on N11   @ Av Fernão de Magalhães   n Praça da República   the eye up the nave to the
        (239 857 186); Universidade de Coimbra (239 242 744);   flamboyant retable over
        Largo da Portagem (239 488 120)         the altar. The work of Flemish
                                                wood carvers in about 1502,
        The birthplace of six kings and the seat of Portugal’s   this depicts the birth of     200 metres
        oldest university, Coimbra arouses an affection in the   Christ, the Assumption and   (220 yards)  da Graça   R U A         N I C O L A U         C H A N T E R E N N E
                                                                                                   Igreja
                                                                                                                        MONTES
        Portuguese shared by no other city. Afonso Henriques,   many saints. A 16th-century   LARGO DO  R. ROSA FALCÃO   R U A       G U E R R A       J U N Q U E I R O
                                                                                                                        CLAROS
        the first king of Portugal, moved his capital here in 1139,   altarpiece in the south   ARNADO  Igreja do Carmo
                                                                                                              R U A   D O U T O R   A N T Ó N I O   J O S É   D E   A L M E I D A
        an honour it retained until 1256. For the Portuguese,                       BAIXA        R UA      DA              SOF I A   CONCHADA
        Coimbra holds the roots of nationhood and, for   COIMBRA FADO                          RUA DO CARMO   RU A  DE  M O N TA R ROIO
        visitors, a wealth of fascinating historic associations.                                RUA DIREITA        RUA OLÍMPIO NICOLAU RUI FERNANDES   RUA ANTERO DE QUENTAL
                                                  While Lisbon’s music is      A V E N I D A   C I D A D E   A E M I N I U M  AV E N ID A  F E R N Ã OLAIO  Santa Cruz  Jardim da  Mercado  RUA ANTERO DE QUENTAL
                                                                                                 RUA
                                                  melancholy and sombre,                       JOÃO     CABREIRA  PRACA 8  Manga  RUA DA FONTE NOVA
                                                                                               R. PEDRO
                            Silêncio (which has an                                                    DE MAIO              AVENIDA   SÁ DA BA NDE I R A
        1 "                 admission fee) and the choir   Coimbra’s is boisterous             AV. CENTRAL            Sé Nova
                                                                                                               RUA  JOÃ O
                                                                                                 LARGO DAS
        Santa Cruz          stalls, carved in 1518 with a   and romantic. Sung                  R. DAS PA DEIRAS  RUA   VISCONDE  DA LUZ          RUA DO CORPO DE DEUS  JACINTO  RUA PADRE ANTÓ N IO V I E I R A  Teatro
                                                                                                                             AVENIDA   SÁ DA BA NDE I R A
                                                                                                 OLARIAS
                                                  by male students or
                            frieze about exploration.                                   R. DOS OLEIROS O   D E  M A G A L H Ã E S   Torre de Anto  Museu Nacional  R U A  D O S   PRAÇA
        ⌂ Praça 8 de Maio   § 239                 alumni of Coimbra’s                             R. A. VE I G A            Machado de Castro  Académico  REPÚBLICA
                                                                                                                                         DA
        822 941   # 9am–5pm Mon–  Portugal’s first two kings,   university, fado in                  PRACA DO   LARGO  R. BO R GES  SÉ NOVA  Gil Vicente
                                                                                                     COMERCIO
                                                                                                               CARNE I RO
                                                                                                            DA SÉ
        Fri, 9am–noon, 2–5pm Sat,   Afonso Henriques and Sancho I,   this city ranges from   Railway        VELHA      LARGO DE E S T U D O S  RUA DE OLIVEIRA
                                                                                                                                      MATOS
                                                                                          Station
                            were reinterred here in 1520.
        4–5:30pm Sun                              serenades to drinking                          RUA   D A   SOTA   Sé Velha  ALTA  RUA VENÂNCIO RODRIGUES
                                                  songs. Remember to                                    R. FERREIRA   BORGES   RUA SÃO JOÃO  D.DINIS
                                                                                                                             LARGO
        Founded by the canons of                  cough rather than                                                                RUA CASTRO
        St Augustine in 1131, the church          clap the singers.                        Mon d ego  PORTAGEM  Palacio  Coimbra    MATOSO
                                                                                                      LARGO DA
                                                                                                          dos Grilos
                                                                                                                                       ARCOS
        and monastery of Santa Cruz   2 "                                                       AV E N I D A                               E M Í D I O         N A V A R R O   University  São Sebastião  JARDIM
                                                                                                                              Aqueduto de
                                                                                                                                        DO
                                                                                                  PONTE DE
        are rich in examples of the   Sé Velha                                      AV E NIDA DE CONIMBRIGA   COUR A Ç A   D E   L ISB OA
        city’s early-16th-century   ⌂ Largo da Sé Velha   § 239                                    SANTA CLARA
        school of sculpture. Carvings   825 273   # 10am–5:30pm
                                                                                                                                  Jardim
        by Nicolau Chanterène and   Mon–Fri, 10am–6:30pm Sat,               ESTRADA DA GUARDA INGLESA                             Botânico
        Jean de Rouen adorn the   11am–5pm Sun & public hols                         Estádio                                           A V .   D R     J Ú L I O   H E N R I Q U E S
        church’s Portal da Majestade,                                               Universitário                       Almedina
                                                                                                                Parque
        designed by Diogo de Castilho   The fortress-style Old                                                 Manuel
        in 1523. The chapterhouse by   Cathedral is widely regarded         Santa Clara-  DE SANTA AVENIDA JOÃO DAS REGAS   Braga  R U A     D O     B R A S I L
                                                                                   ROSSIO
        Diogo Boitac is Manueline in   as the finest Romanesque              a-Nova  CLARA                                  0 metres  300 N
        style, as are the Claustro do   building in Portugal, a                              AV. INÊS DE CASTRO
                                                                               Portugal dos  Santa Clara-                   0 yards  300
    196                                                                        Pequenitos  a-Velha
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