Page 67 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 67

occupied this site on the
       edge of the Alfama for over    5 "           GREAT VIEW
       a century, laid out under the   Santa Engrácia  Miradouro de
       shade of trees or canopies.     Y2   ⌂ Campo de Santa   Santa Luzia
       As the fame of this flea   Clara   § 218 854 820   @ 712      The terrace by the
       market has grown, bar gains   v 28   # 10am–6pm Tue–  church of Santa Luzia
       are increas ingly hard to find   Sun (to 5pm Nov–Mar)       provides a sweeping
       among the mass of bric-a-  ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Apr, Easter Sun,   view over the Alfama
       brac, but a few of the vendors   13 Jun, 24 & 25 Dec     and the River Tagus.
       have interesting wrought-iron             Landmarks, from left
       work, prints and tiles, as well   One of Lisbon’s most striking   to right, are the cupola
       as second-hand clothes.   landmarks, the soaring dome   of Santa Engrácia, the
       Evidence of Portugal’s colonial   of Santa Engrácia (officially   church of Santo Estêvão
       past is reflected in the stalls   known as Panteão Nacional)   and the white towers
       selling African statuary, masks   punctuates the skyline in the   of São Miguel. While
       and jewellery.      east of the city. The original   tourists admire the
                           church collapsed in a storm in   views, old men play
                           1681. The first stone of the   cards under the bou-
                           Baroque monument, laid in   gainvillea-clad pergola.
                           1682, marked the beginning
                           of a 284-year saga that led to
                           the invention of a saying that   National Pantheon, it houses
                           a Santa Engrácia job was   cenotaphs of Portuguese
                           never done. The church was   heroes, such as Vasco da
                           not completed until 1966.  Gama (p114) and Afonso de
                             The interior is paved with   Albuquerque, Viceroy of India
                           coloured marble and crowned   (1502–15) on the left, and on
                           by a giant cupola. As the   the right Henry the Navigator
                                               (p328). More contemporary
                                               tombs include that of the
                                               fadista Amália Rodrigues. A
                           A bric-a-brac stall    lift up to the dome offers a
                           at the Feira da Ladra    magnificent 360-degree
                           flea market         panorama of the city.
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