Page 69 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

STAY

Street café in front of
the 16th-century 9 - Memmo Alfama
Casa dos Bicos Museu do Aljube – Preserving a real sense
Resistência e of history, these
Liberdade buildings now house a
buildings in the Alfama area.  W4 ⌂ Rua Augusta Rosa boutique hotel. The
It was built in 1523 for Brás 42 # 10am–6pm Tue-Sat terrace has a pool and
de Albuquerque, illegitimate ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec offers dazzling views.
son of Afonso, Viceroy of India ∑ museudoaljube.pt  X4 ⌂ Travessa
and conqueror of Goa and Merceeiras 27
Malacca. The façade is an This fascinating museum ∑ memmohotels.com
adaptation of a style that was once used by António ¡¡¡
was popular across Europe Salazar – who ruled Portugal
during the 16th century. The as a dictator from 1926 until
top two storeys, ruined in the revolution of 1974 – to Solar do Castelo
the earthquake of 1755, imprison his political oppon- A charming hotel by the
were restored in the 1980s, ents. It is dedicated to those castle walls, built on the
recreating the original from who were prepared to fight site of the former palace
old views of Lisbon in tile for democracy, both in kitchens. Expect
panels and engravings. In Portugal and in its former original stone walls and
the interim the building was colonies. Three floors are intricate azulejos.
used for salting fish (Rua dos filled with evocative photos,  W3 ⌂ Rua das
Bacalhoeiros means street posters and radio broadcasts, Cozinhas 2
of the cod fisher men). with labelling in English. There ∑ solardocastelo.com
Following an extensive are also harrowing personal ¡¡¡
renovation in the 20th-cen- accounts from people who
tury, Casa dos Biscos now were incarcerated and often Palacete Chafariz
plays host to the head quar- tortured for views that were del Rei
ters of the José Saramago considered contrary to those Family home, with
Foundation. It is also home of the state; many of these stained glass, stuccoed
to a permanent exhibition inmates were later deported ceilings, chandeliers
dedicated to the life and to Madeira or the Azores. and antiques.
works of this Nobel Prize- Their cramped, windowless
winning author, who died cells can still be visited.  X4 ⌂ Travessa
Chafariz del Rei 6
in 2010. A variety of cultural The basement houses ∑ chafarizdelrei.com
events often take place here; archaeological finds from
these include concerts, plays beneath the building, which ¡¡¡
and book releases, along date back to Moorish times,
with a range of seminars, while the top-floor café offers
debates and lively talks. fine views over the river.
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