Page 154 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

152  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION

2 Elizondo
Navarra. Road Map B4. * 3,200. @
n Museo Jorge Oteiza; 948 58 15 17.
( Sat (every two weeks).
_ Santiago (25 Jul).
In the middle of a beautiful
valley, straddling the banks of
the Baztán river, lies the district
capital of Elizondo. In Basque,
the name of the town means
“beside the church” Traditionally,
the inhabitants of Elizondo
farmed livestock, but today,
despite the infertile soil,
Typical Basque house in the picturesque agriculture is the mainstay of One of the many houses built for the
village of Etxalar the economy. nobility in Elizondo
The local architecture features
1 Las Cinco Villas Gothic houses and nobles’ Environs
del Valle de Bidasoa residences decorated with On the northern border of Navarra
coats of arms, testifying to is Zugarramurdi, a town infused
Navarra. Road Map B4. @ n Oieregui, Elizondo’s long and splendid with the fra grance of herbs;
948 59 23 86; Bera, 948 63 12 22 past. Reddish stone was used surrounding it are pastures with
(summer only). ∑ turismonavarra.es in the construction of most grazing cows and hills dotted
of these buildings. with large caseríos (country
In the Bidasoa river valley are The town’s best-known houses). Amid the scenery, in
five attractive towns that owe buildings are the Palacio de striking shades of green, stand
their unique character not only Arizcunenea, an 18th-century ancient houses with coats of arms
to the beautiful forest scenery, Baroque palace with a façade and the 18th-century Iglesia de
but also to the proximity of the characteristically set back from la Asunción, partially destroyed
border with France and the iron the street, and the arcaded during the Napoleonic Wars (see
industry that thrived here. town hall. p45). More famous, however, are
The most northerly is Bera The eclectic Iglesia de the Cuevas de Zugarramurdi,
(Vera), the largest of the five Santiago, dedicated to the just outside town. The caves are
towns, which has a mix of patron saint of Elizondo, was said to have been a meet ing place
agriculture and industry. Trade built at the beginning of the for witches in the 16th century.
with France has played an 20th century. The towers of
important role in this town’s the church are imitation O Cuevas de Zugarramurdi
history. The celebrated Basque Baroque; inside is a Neo-Gothic Tel 948 59 93 05. Open 11am–6pm
writer Pío Baroja lived here. The organ. Two hermitages can Tue–Sun (to 7pm Sat & Sun); summer:
highest point in the town is be visited in the vicinity of 11am–8pm daily (booking advised).
Larun hill, from where there Elizondo – San Pedro and Closed 18–30 Aug. &
are magnificent views of the Santa Engracia. ∑ turismozugarramurdi.com
forested surroundings.
Heading south to Lesaka, The Witches of Zugarramurdi
the houses here have wooden
balconies under deep eaves. In 1609, the Inquisition initiated a trial of 40 women from Zugarramurdi,
The road south continues to accusing them of witchcraft; 12 of the women were burnt at the stake.
pass hills dotted with white Since that time, the area has been associated with the Cuevas de
farmsteads to reach Igantzi Zugarramurdi, where witches’ sabbaths (akelarres) are said to have
(Yanci), the smallest of the towns taken place. Akelarre is a Basque word meaning “goat meadow” – it was
in the area; the nearby hills believed that at these sabbaths the witches would meet with a demon
conceal several old caseríos in the form of a goat. A stream known as the Infernal River (Infernuko
(Basque farmhouses) as well as a Erreka) flows through the
100-m (32-ft) long caves.
spring with therapeutic powers. Traditionally the witches’
Arantza is the most secluded legend was commemorated
and remote of the towns. Since by a summer festival at
the 12th century, pigeons have which roast lamb was eaten.
been caught in huge nets strung
across a pass above Etxalar
(Echalar). From the summit Cuevas de Zugarramurdi,
of La Rhune, on the French where witches’ sabbaths
border above the valley, there were supposedly held
are great views of the Pyrenees.
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–7 and pp221–2

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