Page 156 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

154  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION

Child (Virgen de Roncesvalles). 17,000 ha (42,000 acres).
The church dates from the The trees are chiefly beech and
13th century and is one of the fir, and there are many species
best examples of Navarrese of wild animal, including
Gothic, although in the 17th red deer, fallow deer, wild
century it was given a more boar and capercaillie.
Baroque appearance. Hidden deep in the forest
The 18th-century hospital – is Lago Irabia; there are also
the only one to have survived refreshing natural springs and
to the present day – now the fast-flowing Irati river.
accommodates a youth hostel. At the confluence of the
In a slightly out-of-the-way Urbeltza and Urtxuria rivers
location is the 12th- stands the Ermita de la
century Capilla del Virgen de las Nieves
Espiritu Santo, considered (Madonna of the Snows),
The densely forested countryside to be the oldest building while between the villages
around Roncesvalles in the village. According of Lumbier, Sangüesa and
to legend, it was Liédena lie the ruins of
4 Roncesvalles zhere, after the a Roman settlement.
(Orreaga) battle of 778, Rising high above
that Charlemagne the treetops are the
Navarra. Road Map C4. * 30.
n Antiguo Molino (Old Mill); 948 76 ordered Roland imposing peaks of
03 01. _ Virgen de Roncesvalles and the other fallen Pico de Orhi.
(8 Sep). ∑ roncesvalles.es knights to be buried In the district of
(see p41). Aezkoa are the
High on a pass through the One of the village’s ruins of a small
Pyrenees – one of the oldest more modern 18th-century
crossings in the mountains – buildings is the weapons factory –
is the village of Roncesvalles presbytery, or Casa A figure of the Virgin one of the best
(Orreaga in Basque). This old Prioral, which has an in Roncesvalles examples of
settlement was built to serve annexe containing a Spanish industrial
travellers and pilgrims heading library and a museum displaying architecture of the period.
to Santiago de Compostela (see sculpture, painting, incunab ula The Bosque de Irati leaves an
pp64–7). Its most impor tant and precious jewellery. unforgettable impression on
building is the Colegiata Real, visitors, especially in autumn,
founded by Sancho VII the when the beech leaves turn
Strong, who chose it as his 5 Bosque de Irati beautiful colours.
burial place. Inside the church Navarra. Road Map C4. n Ochagavia;
is Sancho’s white tomb, lit by a 948 89 06 41. ∑ irati.org
stained-glass window depicting 6 Valle de Salazar
his great victory at the Battle In the dampest part of Navarra, Navarra. Road Map C5. n Ochagavia;
of Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212 spread across the Salazar and 948 89 06 41.
(see p42). Below a high canopy Aezkoa valleys, is this large
is a silver-plated Virgin and forest, covering an area of In the eastern part of the
Navarrese Pyrenees extends the
Salazar river valley. Thanks to its
Roland in Roncesvalles proximity to the sea, it is damper
The 12th-century French epic poem, The Song of Roland, describes than other valleys in the region
how the rearguard of Charlemagne’s army – in which Roland led and is covered in beech woods.
the Frankish knights – was slaughtered by the Moors. The truth is Perched along the banks of
somewhat different, however: the victors were not Moors but warlike the river are typical mountain
Basque highlanders from Navarra, villages featuring stone and
who wanted to manifest their timber houses with thatched
independence. Preserved in roofs. The prettiest and most
Roncesvalles is the stone characteristic of these is
upon which Roland tried to Ochagavía. Preserved here
break his sword. A boulder are six stone bridges as well as
marks the spot where
Charlemagne is said to the shrine of Santa María de
have found the fallen Muskilda, where a lively fiesta
knight who, according in honour of the Virgin takes
to legend, was buried place in September.
in the Capilla del The inhabitants of the Valle
Monument bearing an image of Roland Espiritu Santo. de Salazar earn their living
principally from sheep farming
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–7 and pp221–2

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