Page 157 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

NA V ARR A AND LA RIOJA  155

Specialities of the Navarrese Pyrenees
The rivers of the Navarrese Pyrenees are flowing with an
abundance of trout, which can be caught in the spring and
summer. Organized fishing trips are very popular among visitors
to the area. Navarra-style trout, or trucha a la
Navarra, is trout stuffed with jamón serrano
(thinly sliced cured ham), and then braised
in olive oil. Lamb is the most popular meat
and cordero al chilindrón (lamb stew)
features on almost every menu. The Valle
de Roncal is known primarily for its local
cheese – queso de Roncal; it is made between
December and July from local sheep’s milk Sheep’s cheese from
The mountainous landscape of the and has a distinctive, slightly smoky flavour. the Valle de Roncal
Valle de Salazar
and forestry. Aside from taking church of San Cipriano contains away are circular shepherds’
relaxing walks through the a painted Plateresque reredos huts known as arkuek.
idyllic countryside, there is and a Baroque organ. High in the mountains is the
good terrain here for many Romanesque shrine of San
active sports, including skiing 8 Pamplona Miguel, with three aisles and
and mountain biking. apses. The Archangel Michael
See pp156–9. was traditionally venerated in the
7 Valle de Roncal area; it was believed he shared
some traits with Hermes and was
9 Sierra de Aralar
Navarra. Road Map C5. @ from a messenger between heaven
Pamplona. n Paseo Julian Gayarre s/n, Navarra. Road Map B4. n Etxarri and earth. Inside the shrine is
Roncal; 948 47 52 56 or 948 47 53 17. Aranatz; 948 46 17 41. Lekunberri, a silver-coated figure of him
∑ vallederoncal.es Plazaola 21; 948 50 72 04. with a crucifix on his head. There
is also a superb 12th-century
Situated on the northeastern The Aralar mountain chain enamelled reredos in the
border of Navarra, the Valle runs along the border Romanesque-Byzantine style; its
de Roncal is the highest and between Navarra and the centrepiece is an image of the
most mountainous part of the Basque province of Guipúzcoa. Virgin and Child surrounded by
province. Navarra’s loftiest peak – This ancient massif, covered 18 medallions depicting mytho-
Mesa de los Tres Reyes, or Table in beech, oak and bracken, is logical and religious scenes.
of the Three Kings – is situated criss-crossed by rivers; its
here. Winters in the Roncal highest peak is Irumugarrieta Environs
Valley are long and snowy; at 1,427 m (4,682 ft) above sea Lekumberri (Lekunberri) is a
summers are mild. level. Some of the mountain- base for excursions into the
The village of Burgui to the sides are so steep that, in order valley and mountains. Here are
south affords panoramic views to cut the grass, farmers have some excellent caseríos (Basque
of the valley, its contours carved to tie them selves to ropes farmhouses) bearing coats of
by the Esca river. A medieval attached to trees. This area arms as well as the aisleless
bridge can be seen here. Roncal is Basque-speaking. Gothic church of San Juan
(Erronkari), a village with cobbled Several megaliths still stand Bautista, dating from the 13th
streets and stone houses, is the in the area, including the Albi century. Local crafts can be
geograph ical heart of the valley. dolmen, and a short distance purchased in the town.
There are ski runs in the small,
post-glacial Valle de Belagoa.
The district can be toured in a
variety of ways: on horseback,
by bike, in a four-wheel drive,
or on foot.
Environs
Isaba (Izaba), the largest town
in the valley, is a ski resort and
a popular base for skiers and
mountaineers. Situated at the
confluence of three rivers, Isaba
features fine houses with steep
roofs and coats of arms on their
façades. The 16th-century Stone houses with characteristic white chimneys in the Valle de Roncal

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