Page 158 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain
P. 158

156      NOR THERN  SP AIN  REGION  B Y  REGION

       8 Pamplona (Iruña)                      by a symbolic statue of a
                                               woman upholding the historic
       In 75 BC, the Roman general Pompey founded the town of   laws (fueros) of Navarra.
       Pompaelo on the site of the old Basque settle ment of Iruña.
       Strategically located on the river at the foot of the Pyrenees,   P Plaza del Castillo
       Pamplona played the role of a fortified border town. Today, it   The square owes its name
                                               to a castle raised here in the
       is the financial, commercial and academic centre of Navarra,   14th century. Initially used as
       offering visitors fine cuisine and pleasant walks along the   a marketplace and place for
       riverside or through the Old Town. Each July, the world-  fiestas, it later became a venue
       famous San Fermín festival, with its bull running, totally   for bullfights, when the
       transforms the city.                    balconies of the surrounding
                                               houses were used as seating
                                               areas. Until the 19th century,
       Exploring Pamplona  yellowed by the sun, and its   the square was enclosed. In
       To fully appreciate its charms,   moats have long been empty –   1931, a theatre along one of its
       Pamplona, with its parks and   but once you pass through the   sides was destroyed to make
       wide avenues, is best explored   main entrance, the impres sion is   way for Avenida Carlos III,
       on foot. From the old city walls   very different. Encircling the   an avenue linking the square
       – situated to the north in a    well­kept lawn are the citadel’s   with the city’s new districts.
       loop of the Arga river – you    former buildings, now converted
       can get a good overview.    into exhibition rooms. The oldest
       Going south, the Old Town    structure is the powder magazine
       ends at a massive citadel.  (Polvorín), dating from 1694.
                           You can climb up the embank­
                           ment onto one of the surviving
                           bastions for a view of the area.
                           P Palacio de Navarra
                           Avenida Carlos III 2; 848 42 71 27.
                           Open To large groups only (not indi­
                           viduals), by prior arrangement. 7
                           This Neo­Classical palace,
                           designed in 1840 by Juan de   The colourful façade of one of the
                           Nagusia, is the seat of the   city’s tenements
                           provincial government. Set in
                           the tympanum is the Navarra   R Iglesia San Saturnino
                           coat of arms flanked by two   Also known as Iglesia de San
       The walls of the city’s 16th-century citadel,   men – a highlander and an   Cernín, this Romanesque
       among parks and gardens  inhabitant of the river basin.   church (13th century) was built
                           Inside is a portrait of Fernando   on the site where St Saturninus
       + Ciudadela         VII by Goya, as well as many   is said to have baptized some
       Felipe II ordered the construc tion   other paintings – mostly   40,000 pagan townspeople.
       of Pamplona’s citadel in 1571.   portraits – from the 19th and   One of its massive towers is
       From the outside, the building   20th centuries. In front of the   a clock tower, topped by a
       looks rather decrepit – grass is   palace stands a column topped   cockerel – the Gallico de San
                                                Cernín, a symbol of the city. In
                                                the 18th century, the church’s
        The Kingdom of Navarra
                                                cloister was replaced by the
        Navarra emerged as an independent Christian kingdom in the 9th   Baroque Capilla della Virgen del
        century, after Sancho I Garcés became king of Pamplona. Sancho III   Camino. Its beautiful reredos
        the Great expanded the kingdom, and at his death, in   contains a 12th­century
        1035, Navarra stretched from Ribagorza (in Aragón) to   wooden robed figure of the
        Valladolid, but his heirs failed to hold the kingdom   Virgin, covered in silver tiles.
        together. Sancho VI the Wise (1150–
        94), recognized the independent         E Museo de Navarra
        rights (fueros) of many towns.          C/Santo Domingo 47; 848 42 64 92.
        In 1234, Navarra passed by              Open 9:30am–2pm & 5–7pm
        marriage to French rulers. In 1512,     Tue–Sat, 11am–2pm Sun and
        Fernando II of Castile annexed          holidays. & (free Sat pm & Sun).
        it as part of a united Spain.           8 by prior arrangement. 7
          Carlos de Viana, one of the last leaders   The Museum of Navarra is
                of independent Navarra          located inside the former
                                                Hospital de Nuestra Señora
       For hotels and restaurants see pp206–7 and pp221–2


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