Page 167 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain
P. 167

NA V ARR A  AND  LA  RIOJA      165


       d Calahorra         rugs for which the village was
                           once renowned. Enciso and the
       La Rioja. Road Map B5. * 25,000. @
       £ n Plaza del Raso 16; 941 10 50 61.   other villages in the area are
       _ San Emeterio and San Celedonio   now largely depopulated.
       (1–3 Mar). ∑ lariojaturismo.com    Two important churches
                           survive here: the 16th-century
       Calahorra’s history stretches    Santa María de la Estrella, with
       back almost 2,000   a square tower and a beautiful
       years. Originally   15th-century figure of the
       known by its Roman   Virgin; and the aisleless San
       name of Calagurris, it   Pedro, featuring a 12th-century
       was one of the Iberian   battlemented tower. A few
       peninsula’s most    hermitages and the ruins of a
       important cities. On   castle are also in the area.
       the banks of the        Each year the region
       Cidacos river, at      attracts a plethora of
       the spot where          tourists to see the huellas   The high altar at Iglesia de la Asunción
       its patron saints,      de dinosaurios (dinosaur   in Navarrete
       the legionnaires        footprints), dating from
       Emeterio and            the Mesozoic period and   has had many different owners
       Celedonio, are          spread across several sites.   over the centuries. Today, thanks
       thought to have         Visitors can follow the   to a prog ramme of renovation
       been martyred,          dinosaur trail from    the ancient houses with stone
       rises a 15th-century    El Barranco Perdido,    coats of arms (of which there
       cathedral with a Neo -   an adventure park that   are more than 50) have recovered
       Classical façade by       includes a museum of   some of their former splendour.
       the Raón brothers.    A figure from the    palaeontology.  Fine examples can be seen on
       In the cathedral’s   church in Calahorra  Calle Mayor. Running behind
       chapel of San Pedro       E El Barranco Perdido  the street is Cal Nueva, the
       is a Plateresque reredos.  Enciso, La Rioja. Tel 941 39 60 80.   former approach road to the
         The Iglesia de San Andrés,   Open end Mar–mid-Jun & Sep–   underground bodegas.
       whose construction began in   mid-Oct: 11am–6:30pm Sat, Sun      The aisled Iglesia de la
       the 16th century, features a   & public hols; mid-Jun–mid-Jul:   Asunción, with a Renaissance
       remarkable tympanum; a crucifix,   11am–7pm Tue–Sun; mid-Jul–   façade and two porticoes,
       with arms of unequal length. On   end Aug: 11am–8pm daily. & 8 7   was begun in the 16th century;
                           ∑ barrancoperdido.com
       the door at the main entrance is        inside is an impressive
       a carving that symbolizes the           Baroque reredos.
       victory of Christianity over   g Navarrete     Not far from Navarrete is a
       paganism, the latter represented        cemetery whose entrance gate
       by the sun, the moon and a   La Rioja. Road Map A5. * 2,800. @   is the portico of a former pil-
       synagogue. The austere tower is   n Cuesta El Caño; 941 44 10 62.    grims’ hostel. This Romanesque
       built of stone and brick. Inside   ( Wed. _ La Virgen y San Roque   structure, with elements of early
       the church is a magnificent   (15–16 Aug).  Gothic, is composed of five
       Rococo altar by Manuel Adán.            arches, including pointed ones,
         The Monasterio de San José   The town of Navarrete, situated   decorated with scenes from
       was built in the 16th century.    on what was once the border   the lives of pilgrims and of
       At the high altar are murals   between Navarra and Castile,   St George fighting the dragon.
       depicting scenes from the life
       of St Theresa. To the side of the   Dinosaurs from La Rioja
       altar is a Flagellation of Christ,
       by Gregorio Hernández.  Approximately 100 million years ago, during the Mesozoic period,
                            La Rioja was a vast river delta – a marshy landscape covered in rich
                            vegetation. Among the numerous animals living here were dinosaurs,
       f Enciso             both carnivorous and
                            herbivorous, who left their
       La Rioja. Road Map B6. * 160. @   footprints in the mud.
       _ San Pedro (29 Jun), San Roque y   Over the millennia, due
       Virgen de la Estrella (15–16 Aug).
                            to geological changes, the
                            mud turned into rock, and
       This tiny village of white houses   many of the footprints
       with red roofs was once a centre   have been preserved;
       of sheep farming and textiles,   they can be seen by the
       but its best days have long since   marked trails that lead
       passed. Nowadays only one   through the area.  Reconstructed dinosaurs in Valdecevillo
       factory produces the woollen
                                          For hotels and restaurants see pp206–7 and pp221–2


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