Page 162 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain
P. 162

160      NOR THERN  SP AIN  REGION  B Y  REGION


                           (galleries) in each of its walls.   are his bedroom and a chapel
                           Nearby is the entrance to the   with a Gothic walnut crucifix.
                           unusual crypt – underneath    Accord ing to legend, at diffi cult
                           its arches rises a forest of    moments in the saint’s life, and
                           squat, completely unadorned   on the anniver sary of his death,
                           columns. The kings of Navarra   droplets of blood appeared on
                           are buried here.    the crucifix.
                             The façade of the church      The chapel walls are decor ated
                           is decorated with carvings    with a macabre mural of grinning
                           of strange beasts, birds and   skeletons, a depiction of The
                           human figures intertwined    Dance of Death. Every year from
                           with plant motifs. The monks’   4 to 12 March, the inhabitants
                           Gregorian chant during    of Navarra make a penitent
                           services is wonderful to hear.   pilgrimage to the castle chapel.
       A church with three apses near the   Part of the monastery now
       Monasterio de Leyre  accommodates a hotel.
                                               w Sangüesa
       0 Monasterio
       de Leyre            q Castillo de Javier   Navarra. Road Map C5. * 5,300. @
                                               n C/Mayor 2; 948 87 14 11. ( Fri.
       Yesa (Navarra). Road Map C5. @ from   Javier (Navarra). Road Map C5.    _ San Sebastián (11–17 Sep).
                                               ∑ sanguesa.es
       Yesa. Tel 948 88 41 50. Open daily. &   @ from Pamplona. Tel 948 88 40 24.
       8 ∑ monasteriodeleyre.com  Open 10am–1:30pm & 3:30–6:30pm
                           daily. & ∑ santuariojaviersj.org  Set on the pilgrimage route of
       The monastery of San Salvador           St James, this town was one of
       de Leyre is situated high    In the 10th and     the main trading
       above a reservoir, alone    11th cen turies,      centres in the
       amid breathtaking scenery,   prior to the         region. The
       backed by limestone cliffs.  construction of      Iglesia de
         The abbey is mentioned in   the castle, a watchtower   Santa María la Real, whose
       documents dating from the    stood here, to which new   construction began in the
       9th century; in the 10th and   build ings were gradually   12th century, has a splendid
       11th centuries, the kings of   added. In the 16th century,   Romanesque portal.
       Navarra found refuge here    Cardinal Cisneros ordered    Preserved in the sacristy is
       from the Moors. The abbey   the castle to be redesigned   a 15th-century processional
       experienced its Golden Age in   as a fortress, but in recent   monstrance, measuring
       the 11th century, when it was   times the complex has been   1.35 m (4.4 ft) in height. The
       reconstructed by Sancho III the   restored, including its towers   Romanesque-Gothic Iglesia
       Great, having suffered damage   and drawbridge. It now   de Santiago el Mayor has a
       at the hands of the Muslim   houses a Jesuit college.  battlemented tower. Inside, it is
       general Al-Mansur.    St Francis Xavier, a    decorated with motifs
         In keeping with Cistercian   missionary and co-   A crucifix in the    of the pilgrimage
       rule, the church is austere in   founder of the Jesuit   Castillo de Javier  route – scallop shells
       appearance. Of note are the   order (and the patron   (vieiras), walking sticks
       three semicircular apses of   saint of Navarra sports men and   and gourds. A polychrome
       equal height. The tower, built    pelota players), was born in the   stone figure of St James was
       on a square base, has triforia   castle in 1506. Preserved here   discovered under the church.

















       The richly decorated Romanesque portal of the Iglesia de Santa María la Real in Sangüesa
       For hotels and restaurants see pp206–7 and pp221–2


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