Page 169 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

NA V ARR A AND LA RIOJA  167

k Santo Domingo The part-Renaissance church
de la Calzada has Baroque golden doors
and a Rococo sacristy, where
La Rioja. Road Map A5, G3. * 6,500.
@ n Calle Mayor 33; 941 34 12 38. 17th-century paintings are
( Sat. _ Fiestas del Santo (10–15 hung. The treasury has a
May). ∑ lariojaturismo.com collection of ivory plaques,
once part of two 11th-century
In the Middle Ages, a hermit jew elled reliquaries, then plund-
named Domingo established a ered by French troops in 1813.
hospital and built a bridge over Medieval manuscripts are
the Oja river to aid pilgrims on also displayed in the treasury.
their journey to Santiago. In Among them is a facsimile of
time, a town formed here. one of the earliest-known texts
St Dominic’s remains are kept in Basque and early Castilian.
in the 12th-century cathedral. It is a commentary by a
Ornamentation depicting the Monasterio de San Millán de Yuso, in San 10th-century Suso monk on a
Tree of Jesse can be seen on the Millán de la Cogolla work by San Cesáreo de Arles,
pilasters by the entrance to the the Glosas Emilianenses.
chancel. The former high altar, Monasterio de San Millán
cur rently placed in one of the de Suso (“Suso” meaning
aisles, is the Renaissance upper). It was built in the z Haro
work of Damià Forment. 10th century on the site of La Rioja. Road Map A5, G2. * 12,000.
The choir, decorated a com munity of monks £ @ n Plaza de la Paz; 941 30 35
with figures of saints who lived in caves, 80. 8 ( Tue, Sat. _ San Pedro
and inscriptions founded by St (29 Jun), Virgen de la Vega (8 Sep).
on the stalls, is a Emilian (San ∑ haroturismo.org
masterpiece of the Millán), a shepherd
Plateresque style. hermit, in 547. The Set among extensive vineyards
The most bizarre church, hollowed on the Ebro river, Haro is the
element is a cage out of pink capital of the Rioja Alta region.
set in a wall in sandstone, has The town’s main monument is a
which a live cock- Romanesque and Baroque basilica devoted to its
erel and hen are Mozarabic features. patron saint, Nuestra Señora de
kept. The animals It contains the la Vega – there’s a Gothic figure
commemorate a St Dominic, patron saint of tomb of St Emilian of her on the high altar. Of note,
miracle attributed Santo Domingo de la Calzada and the graves of too, is the Iglesia de Santo
to St Dominic. It is seven infants of Tomás, which features star
said he resur rected a German Lara who, according to legend, vaulting and a Baroque tower.
pilgrim who had been unjustly were kidnapped and beheaded The portal was designed as an
hanged. When the pilgrim’s by the Moors. altar and depicts scenes from
parents found their son still The Monasterio de San the Way of the Cross.
alive on the gallows, they Millán de Yuso (“Yuso” meaning Several bodegas in Haro
rushed to tell the judge, who lower) is in the Cárdenas Valley. offer tours and wine tastings,
exclaimed, “Nonsense, he’s no It was built between the 16th and at the end of June the
more alive than this roast and 18th centuries on the site town’s fiesta finishes with a
chicken on my plate!” of an 11th-century monastery. wine-throwing battle.
Whereupon the chicken stood
up on the plate and crowed.
l San Millán de
la Cogolla
La Rioja. Road Map A5, G3. * 300. @
n Monasterio de Yuso; 941 37 30 49.
Monasterio de Suso: 941 37 30 82
(visits must be booked in advance).
Open Tue–Sun. _ Traslación de las
Reliquias (26 Sep), San Millán y Santa
Gertrudis (12 & 17 Nov). & 8 only.
∑ monasteriodesanmillan.com
This village grew up around
two monasteries. On a hillside
above the village is the The modern architecture of Bodegas Muga, a winery in Haro

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