Page 231 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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DRIVE 22: Castles and Caves  229


       2 Schloss Lichtenstein  Visitors can wander the caverns at
       Baden-Württemberg; 72805   their own pace, which provides a
       Perched at the top of a cliff on    sense of exploration. Warm clothing
       the edge of the Swabian Jura, the   is required as the caves are at a
       photogenic Schloss Lichtenstein    constant tempera ture of 8° C (46° F).
       (Feb, Mar & Nov: open Sat & Sun; Apr–   ª From Tiefenhöhle, turn left
       Oct: open daily) overlooks the plains   and follow signs for Blaubeuren via
       around Tübingen, conveying a sense   B28. Turn left at Marktstrasse, right at
       of being at the very periphery of a   Bergstrasse, straight on to Weilerstrasse
       mountain range. The gabled and   and then into Auf dem Graben, where
       turreted castle dates back to the   there is a car park.
       1840s, when it was built according
       to the exaggerated literary descrip-  4 Blaubeuren
       tions of fairy-tale writer Wilhelm Hauff   Baden-Württemberg; 89143
       about an earlier castle that occu pied   Blaubeuren is worth a stop simply
       this site. Bristling with horrific-looking   to see the source of the Blau river,
       weapons, the castle’s most impres-  which joins the Danube in Ulm. The
       sive feature, its armoury, is as vivid    20-m (65-ft) deep Blautopf, or “Blue
       as any fairy tale.      Pot”, is usually an incredible, clear,   Above Schloss Lichtenstein, immortalized in
       ª Return downhill from car park,   turquoise-coloured pool of water,   a novel by Wilhelm Hauff
       then turn left toward Riedlingen/  although rain transforms this into
       Reutlingen, then Münsingen. From   green, then yellowy brown. Beside    HIKING AROUND BLAUBEUREN
       here, follow B465 through the town   it lies the Hammerschmiede, a mid-
       and on towards Laichingen until    18th-cen tury mill and smithy, which   The Blautopf is the trailhead of a
       signs for Tiefenhöhle.  is at the trailhead of a number of   number of hikes, including a circuit of
                               hikes. Over the road, but accessed    Blaubeuren. Marked by an “A” on the
                                                        trailhead map, this 6-km (4-mile) long
       3 Laichingen Tiefenhöhle  by entrances to the right, are the   trail circuits the valley to provide good
       Baden-Württemberg; 89150   town’s half-tim bered former monas-  views and takes around 90 minutes to
       This cave network (open week before   tery work shops. Dating from 1510,   complete. www.blaubeuren.de
       Easter–early Nov: daily) was discovered   these only saw 25 years of use before
       in 1892 by local sand-digger Johann   the Reformation disbanded the   EAT AND DRINK
       Georg Mack, who wondered where   monas tery, which had been founded
       all his piles of sand were disappearing   here in 1085.  TÜBINGEN
       until he found a crack in the ground   ª Follow signs from centre of   Neckarmüller inexpensive
       into which he lowered his son. The   Blaubeuren to Ulm via B28. At Ulm   A convivial riverside beer garden,
       local community developed   follow signs for Stadtmitte over the   attached to a microbrewery, with a
       Laichingen Tiefenhöhle into an attrac-  bridge on to Wengengasse and turn   fine selection of beers. The restaurant
                                                        also serves good basic dishes, such
       tion in the 1930s, building walkways   right on to Sedelhofgasse, then left    as Maultaschen (Swabian ravioli).
       and fitting ladders. It is now possible   on to Bahnhofsplatz. Follow Friedrich-  Gartenstrasse 4, 72074;  07071 278 48
       to descend 55 m (180 ft) into the   Ebert-Strasse and Neue Strasse to the   Tübinger Wurstküche moderate
       caves without any special equip ment.   Parkhaus am Rathaus car park.  Looking back on a 200-year history,
                                                        Tübinger Wurstküche serves quality
       Below Limpid, aqua-coloured waters of Blautopf, Blaubeuren  traditional fare. From the wine list,
                                                        the “Swabian Aperitives” – house
                                                        specialities – should not be missed.
                                                        Am Lustnauer Tor 8, 72074; 07071 927
                                                        50; www.wurstkueche.com
                                                        Weinstube Forelle expensive
                                                        This traditional, old-world wine bar
                                                        offers good food such as trout in
                                                        almond butter and a range of game
                                                        dishes. An excellent selection of local
                                                        wines is also available.
                                                        Kronenstrasse 8, 72070; 07071 240 94;
                                                        www.weinstube-forelle.de
                                                        BLAUBEUREN
                                                        Ochsen moderate
                                                        This restaurant has a reputation for fine
                                                        regional cuisine. The oxtail ragout is a
                                                        speciality, as is the seasonal asparagus.
                                                        Marktstrasse 4, 89143; 07344 96 98 90;
                                                        www.ochsen-blaubeuren.de
                                         Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €20; moderate €20–€40; expensive over €40


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