Page 233 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 22: Castles and Caves 231

by architect Gottfried Böhm, lies
opposite the Fischkastenbrunnen,
or Fish Crate Fountain. Between the
two, the 16th- century Rathaus 6
is deco rated with lavish frescoes
on its façade celebrat ing Ulm’s
medieval heyday. To the right of the
Rathaus, the Kunsthalle Weishaupt
(closed Mon), a striking modern
build ing over the square, displays
Modern and Pop Art by various
artists includ ing Andy Warhol,
Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky and
Pablo Picasso. The gallery is joined
to the Ulmer Museum 7 (closed
Mon), the city's history museum,
which is inter esting for paint ings
of medieval Ulm. Walk back to the Above View of Kloster Beuron in the Danube
corner of Neue Strasse and 7 Kloster Beuron Valley Below Schloss Sigmaringen towering
Kramgasse to the Parkhaus am Baden-Württemberg; 88631 over town buildings
Rathaus car park. Some of the most dramatic sections
ª Take the B19 and turn left on to of the Upper Danube Valley lie around EAT AND DRINK
B311. Turn right on to B32 and left in the village of Beuron. An enormous ULM
Sigmaringen on to Fürst-Wilhelm- Baroque monastery, Kloster Beuron,
Strasse to the car park. was founded here in 1077 by Allgäuer Hof moderate
Fine old-fashioned inn where almost
Augustinians. Most of the buildings everything is served on a sweet or
The Tailor of Ulm date from the late 17th century, and savoury Pfannkuchen (crêpe).
Dangling inside Ulm’s Rathaus is its church is relatively restrained by Fischergasse 12, 89073; 0731 674 08;
a replica of the hang-glider of local regional Baroque standards, though www.erstes-ulmer-pfannkuchen
tailor Albrecht Berblinger, who lively frescoes of the patron saints haus.de
crash-landed this design into the and legends of the foundation of the Zur Forelle moderate
Danube in 1811. Worn down by monastery decorate the naves. Of This snug 1626 Fischerviertel house,
ceaseless jibes, with his business in with a Napoleonic cannonball lodged
tatters, he died bank rupt in 1825. greatest interest is the glorious in the wall, serves good regional food.
His design has since proven to be Gregorian chanting that accom panies Try the Gaisburger Marsch (a hearty
the world’s first workable aircraft. some services, especially on holidays. beef, potato and Spätzle stew), or the
Beuron is also a good base for hiking house speciality, Forelle (trout). Physicist
trips, and a map at the car park Albert Einstein and conductor Herbert
6 Schloss Sigmaringen details well-marked local options. von Karajan both dined here. Booking
is required.
Baden-Württemberg; 72488 ª Return to Beuron and turn left to Fischergasse 25, 89073; 0731 639 24;
The stately Schloss Sigmaringen (Jan– Tuttlingen on to B311, which becomes www.zurforelle.com
Feb: open Sat & Sun; Mar–Dec: open daily) B31. Turn left on to B27 signposted Panorama expensive
domi nates the sky line of the small “Donaueschingen”, then right for The best of three restaurants in the
regional town of Sigmaringen. First Donaueschingen-Mitte, following Maritim hotel serves high-quality inter-
mentioned in 1077, the castle was signs for the Schloss. national and regional cuisine with lovely
brutally ran sacked by Swedes in views over Ulm from the 16th floor.
Basteistrasse 40, 89073; 0731 923
1632 during the Thirty Years’ War and 17 39; www.maritim.de
destroyed by a huge domestic fire Pflugmerzler expensive
in 1893, leaving only two towers A cosy restaurant featuring Swabian
standing. Substan tially redesigned cuisine, including pasta specialities
in the eclectic style from 1899, the such as Maultaschen (Swabian ravioli)
castle is still owned by a branch of and Spätzle (Swabian noodles).
the Hohenzollern family, who unified Pfluggasse 6, 89073; 0731 602 70 44;
www.pflugmerzler.de; closed Sun
Germany in the 19th century; a pro-
cess helped by having this power base AROUND SCHLOSS SIGMARINGEN
in the south. Its impressive armoury Gasthaus Bären moderate
is a highlight of the castle tours. This hotel-restaurant serves traditional
ª Return to B32, cross the bridge and German food, Balkan dishes, game and,
in the winter, fine Prague roast goose.
turn left following signs to Beuron. Burgstrasse 2, 72488 Sigmaringen (west
At Beuron, turn left at signpost for of Schloss Sigmaringen); 07571 73 09 99;
Kloster Beuron for the car park. closed Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €20; moderate €20–€40; expensive over €40

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