Page 232 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

230 BACK ROADS GERMANY

5 Ulm
Baden-Württemberg; 89073
Lying on the Danube river, Ulm grew prosperous in the Middle Ages.
Over time, corruption, wars and epidemics undermined the city’s
wealth. In 1944, its glorious historic core was destroyed during bomb­
ing raids. Fortunately, its giant Münster came out relatively unscathed.
Today, a great deal of the city has been replaced by modern buildings.

A two-hour walking tour on Schwörmontag in the annual
From the Parkhaus am Rathaus tradition of hearing their mayor
car park, it is a very short walk up pledge the 1397 city oath.
the Kramgasse to reach the vast Back on Sattlergasse, a left turn
sweep of Münsterplatz 1, which leads to Weinhofberg and down to
gives Ulm its focal point. The the start of Fischergasse and the
dimensions of the square are heart of the old fisherman's quarter,
matched by the gigantic Gothic Fischerviertel 3, once home to
Münster (open daily), which was medieval artisans. Look out for the
Above Weekly market in Münsterplatz, Ulm begun in 1377. Designed for a pretzel carved in the door frame of
standing congregation of a baker at Fischergasse 22,
VISITING ULM 20,000, its plans included the and the symbol of a boat­
Parking world’s tallest spire. How ever, man at Fischergasse 18.
The Parkhaus am Rathaus car park on it wasn’t until 1890 that the An alley at the end of
Neue Strasse is very near the Münster. spire reached its full height Fischergasse turns left to
Tourist Information of 161 m (530 ft). The climb the quirky medieval Schiefes
Münsterplatz 50, 89073; 0731 161 28 30; up its 768 steps offers fine Haus 4, or crooked house,
www.tourismus.ulm.de; Apr–Dec: open views of the Black Forest and, which leans precari ously
daily; Jan–Mar: open Mon–Sat on clearer days, the Alps. over a stream. Return to
Inside, the eye is drawn Flower market, Fischergasse and turn left
WHERE TO STAY upwards by the 42­m (138­ft) outside the Münster to a small square where
high nave and the pulpit. stairs climb onto the 1480
ULM The elegant 26­m (85­ft) tabernacle riverside defence wall.
Hotel Bäumle moderate is eye­catching, as is the vast 1471 A walk further along reveals
A renovated building from 1413 with fresco that covers the chancel arch. another crooked building: the
standard hotel rooms and free Internet.
Kohlgasse 6, 89073; 0731 622 87; Turning left out of the Münster, 14th­century defensive tower of
www.hotel-baeumle.de cross Neue Strasse and turn right the Metzgerturm 5. Walking uphill
along Sattlergasse to arrive at Weinhof beneath the Metzgerturm leads
Hotel Schiefes Haus moderate
Famously crooked half­timbered Square. The Schwörhaus 2, or oath to the marketplace, where the glassy
house from 1443 with floors that are house, is where Ulm residents gather central library, Zentralbibliothek,
so uneven that the bed legs have to
be of different lengths.
Schwörhausgasse 6, 89073; 0731 96 WALFISCHGASSE KOHLGASSE
79 30; www.hotelschiefeshausulm.de SED ELHOFG ASSE
Münster Hotel moderate WENGENGASSE ULME RGASSE PFAUENGASSE REBENGASSE
The Münster Hotel provides en­suite WEBER GASSE Münsterplatz
rooms with pretty views of the Münster. PARADIESG
Münsterplatz 14, 89073; 0731 55 21 86 BAHNHOFST R A S SE HIRSCHSTRASSE Münsterplatz Münster
74; www.ulmermuensterhotel.de SCHUHHAUSGASSE
Maritim Hotel expensive EICHELESGASSE Münsterplatz
With modern rooms, this is Ulm’s LAUTENGASSE LAUTE NBER G KÖ P KRAMG
best hotel. Facilities include bike hire. FINGERGASS E
Basteistrasse 40, 89073; 0731 92 30; NEUE STRASSE
SAT TLE R GA S SE
www.maritim.de NEUE STRASSE NEUE STRASSE Rathaus Ulmer
Museum
AROUND KLOSTER BEURON S C H WILMENGASSE WEINHOFBERG MARK TP L ATZ
Schwörhaus MOHRENGASSE
Burg Wildenstein inexpensive HENKERSGRABEN Fischerviertel
This 11th­century stronghold on a PROMENADE HÄMP F ERGAS SE SCHWÖRH AUSG A S S E Schiefes KRONENGASSE
cliff is now a youth hostel. The accom­ A UF DER INSEL
WEINHOF
mo da tion is ideal for family stays. Haus U NTER DER METZIG
Metzgerturm
Jugendherberge Burg Wildenstein, 0 metres 200 FISCH ERGA SSE
88637 Leibertingen (7 km/4 miles east Stadtmauer Donau
of Kloster Beuron); 07466 411; 0 yards 200
www.jugendherberge.de
Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €150
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