Page 234 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

232 BACK ROADS GERMANY

9 Internationales
Luftfahrtmuseum
Baden-Württemberg; 78056
The private collection of an avid
pilot, Schwenningen’s Internationales
Luftfahrtmuseum (closed Mon) is the
fruit of a lifetime spent collecting
and reconstructing aeronautical
memorabilia. Among the collection
are rebuilt versions of early World
War I planes of the kind that the
Red Baron, the German flying ace,
Above Lovely view of the town from castle once flew. But most of the aircraft
grounds, Haigerloch Below left Orchestra 8 Donaueschingen are Cold War­era oddities, bought
fountain, Donaueschingen Below right Baden-Württemberg; 78166 upon their decommissioning and
Gateway to Schloss Haigerloch The longest river in Western flown here from around Europe.
Europe, the Danube begins in Sadly, many were damaged by
Donaueschingen, where its heavy hail storms in 2002 and 2006,
WHERE TO STAY
source is marked by a stone leaving smashed wings and
DONAUESCHINGEN basin, Donauquelle. This lies broken windows.
Hotel Linde moderate on the fringes of the ª Return to B27 then
Traditional, central guesthouse above palace gardens of Schloss turn on to B463 at
a good restaurant with standard Donaueschingen (Apr–Oct: Balingen and continue
rooms and free Wi­Fi. open daily, guided tours only; northward, following signs
Karlstrasse 18, 78166; 0771 831 80; 0771 229 67 75 60), an 18th­ Logo, for Haigerloch. Turn right to
www.hotel-linde-donaueschingen.de
century Baroque palace that Fürstenberg beer park in small multi-storey
Zum Hirschen moderate was extensively renovated in park in lower town centre.
Family­run guesthouse whose spacious belle époque style at the end of the
rooms have a contemporary elegance. 0 Haigerloch
All have access to Wi­Fi. 19th century. Tours visit the luxurious
Herdstrasse 5, 78166; 0771 898 55 80; rooms of the Fürstenberg family, who Baden-Württemberg; 72401
www.hotel-zum-hirschen.de once resided here. In 1283, this family Pretty Haigerloch is draped around
also started the Fürstenberg Brewery, a ridge and surrounded by lush
Öschberghof expensive
This health and golf resort­hotel with which can be visited on pre­booked greenery where lilacs blossom in
boutique­style rooms offers a range tours (Mon–Fri; 0771 862 06). To get spring. It is a quiet town, and very
of saunas and a large pool. The golf there from the car park, turn right and remote, which is why, during World
course is one of the best in the region. then take the first right down Post­ War II, an old beer cellar at the
Golfplatz 1, 78166; 0771 840;
www.oeschberghof.com platz before walking left along Halden base of a cliff here became a secret
strasse to the brewery complex. atomic research laboratory. Today,
HAIGERLOCH ª Return to the B27 following signs the Atomkeller-Museum (May–Sep:
Schloss Haigerloch expensive to Villingen-Schwenningen, then open daily; Mar, Apr, Oct & Nov: open
Housed in a 16th­century castle, this to Schwenningen Ost. At the first Sat & Sun) commemorates this
lovely hotel offers brightly coloured
rooms with all modern comforts. roundabout follow brown signs to research. At the time, atomic science
Schlossstrasse 3, 72401; 07474 Internationale Luftfahrtmuseum was still in its infancy, but the threat
69 30; www.schloss-haigerloch.de for the car park. of an atom bomb was taken so
seriously by the occupying American
forces that everything was methodi­
cally dismantled and destroyed, or
shipped to the US. The whole site
was to be blown up, but luckily,
the priest from the 16th­century
Gothic Schlosskirche (open daily),
perched on the cliff above, begged
for mercy. An explosion in the
cave would have destroyed not
only the cave, but much of Haigerloch.
Fortunately, the Americans changed
their minds once they saw the
church’s ornate Rococo decor
and the impres sive 1609 altar.
The Renaissance Schloss Haigerloch
Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €150

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