Page 89 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Austria
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NOR TH  OF  M ARIAHILFER  STR ASSE      87


                                Mary, Our Lady of   street market, held on the first
                                Perpetual Succour, built   weekend of each month and
                                in the late 17th century   prior to Christmas. Among the
                                on the site of an older   stalls with wood carvings, tie-
                                church, but not   dyed fabrics and silver jewellery,
                                consecrated until 1730.   waiters from the local bars
                                Its façade is an austere   negotiate the busy crowds; there
                                pyramidal structure,   are some 58 bars in this small
                                rising to a bulbous   area, which contains just 138
                                steeple, and there are   houses. The number of bars
                                lively Rococo reliefs set   may change from one week
                                in its walls. In front of   to the next, but the bustling,
                                the church stands a   festive party atmosphere can
                                monu ment to the   be experienced almost every
                                composer Joseph   evening. The Spittelberg area
                                Haydn (see p28), who   also comprises small art
                                lived at this address for   galleries, and artists display
                                12 years. Mariahilfer   their work in the restaurants.
                                Strasse No. 45 is the     At one time, attractive
                                longest and most   barmaids offered “additional
       Schiele’s Kneeling Female Nude (1910), Museum of   famous double-exit   services”, and legend has it that
       Modern Art, MuseumsQuartier  house in Vienna, and   Emperor Joseph II once decided
                                the birthplace in 1790   to explore the Spittelberg district
       seminars, as well as Austria’s   of the popular Austrian play-  for himself. However, when in
       first centre for museum and   wright Ferdinand Raimund.  disguise he entered the Witwe
       exhibition studies. Children            Bolte (Widow Bolte) restaurant,
       can play, explore and learn   o Spittelberg   still open today, he was uncere-
       about a variety of subjects in          moniously thrown out.
       the ZOOM Kindermuseum,    Map 1 C5. % Volkstheater. v 49.      Nos. 18 and 20 Spittelberggasse
       an unconven tional centre.  @ 48A. Amerlinghaus: Stiftgasse 8.   are fine Baroque houses.
         Amid this extraordinary   Tel 52 36 475. Open during events. (     The beautifully restored
       cultural setting are numerous   ∑ amerlinghaus.at  Amerlinghaus, in which the
       cafés, bars, green spaces, shops        painter Friedrich Amerling
       and bookstores.     Spittelberg is the oldest and most   (1803–87) was born, is now
                           colourful part of the elegant 7th   a cultural and community
       i Mariahilfer       District. In the 17th century, the   centre, and a restaurant.
                                                 A little further along, between
                           cluster of streets between
       Strasse             Siebensterngasse and Burggasse,  Siebensterngasse and Mariahilfer
                           around Spittelberggasse, was   Strasse, is an enclosed area
       Map 4 A1, B1. % Westbahnhof,
       Zieglergasse, Neubaugasse,   Vienna’s first immigrant worker   around former barracks now
       MuseumsQuartier. @ 2A, 13A.  district. Its inhabitants were   housing the Military Academy,
                           mainly craftsmen, merchants   and the Stiftkirche, topped with
       Mariahilfer Strasse is one of    and servants from Croatia and   an onion-shaped cupola, which
       the longest streets in Vienna,    Hungary, brought here to work   serves as a garrison church.
       a main artery running west    at the court. Today, the district’s   Its walls are lined with very
       from the town centre to the   crafts heritage lives on in the   expressive late-Baroque reliefs.
       area around Schönbrunn.
         The part between
       Getreidemarkt (Grain Market)
       and Westbahnhof (the Western
       Railway Station) is also the
       busiest shopping street in this
       part of the city. Here you will
       find Vienna’s largest department
       stores and its best window
       displays. Shopping tends to
       be better value here than on
       Kärntner Strasse (see p75), but is
       still more costly than at the mall
       complex at the Meidling train
       station, or further out in the
       Favoriten district.
         Mariahilfer Strasse took its
       name from the church of St   Amerlinghaus communitiy centre, Spittelberg




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