Page 187 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina

C ÓRDOBA AND THE ANDEAN NOR THWEST  185

E Museo Histórico VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Provincial Marqués de
Sobremonte Practical Information
Rosario de Santa Fe 218. Road map C2.
Tel (0351) 433-1661. 435 miles (700 km) NW of Buenos
Open 9:30am–2:30pm Mon–Fri. Aires. * 1,300,000. n Rosario
∑ cba.gov.ar/cordoba- de Santa Fe 39, (0351) 434-1200.
cultura/museos ∑ turismo.cordoba.gov.ar
The superb 18th-century Transport
building that houses this k @
museum was once the city’s
largest colonial residence,
home of the Governor-General The stylish exterior of Museo Municipal surviving Jesuit temple. The
of Córdoba, Marqués de de Bellas Artes interior and exterior are simple,
Sobremonte, between 1784 and almost rustic in their lack of adorn-
1798. He was largely responsible this municipal art gallery is ment, while the nave has panels
for modernizing the city’s located in a lovely 19th-century depicting the trials of the Jesuits.
sanitation. While only a few mansion built in the French style The most striking elements of the
of the items on display in by its owner, Dr. Tomás Garzón. church are the Cusco altarpiece
the museum belonged to the Many of the paintings hail from and the elaborate pulpit. A
Marqués, most are from the the local Cordobesa School, doorway marked Puerta del Cielo
same period. These include some whose leading practitioner was (Gateway to Heaven) pro vides
wonderful paintings in the style Genaro Pérez (1807–54). access to the Capilla Doméstica.
of the Peruvian Cusco School, Many of the works are This small space is a model of
some of which have been influenced by the French artisanal church decoration,
restored and seem to glow Impressionists, with a focus featuring bamboo and raw-
ethereally in the light. The on the landscapes of the hide panels painted using
cedarwood altarpiece in the sierras and port raits vegetable pigments.
Capilla Azul (Blue Chapel) of local poli ti cians South of the church is the
and the religious paintings and aristocrats. There Rectorado de la Universidad
in the adjoining room is also a collec tion of Nacional de Córdoba (UNC).
compete for attention with art from the 1880s Dating from 1621, this is
various secular displays of and the 1920s, the Argentina’s oldest university.
pharmaceutical products, former charac terized Shaded patios, bougainvillea, and
musical instruments, and by social realism, well-stocked libraries make this
home furnishings. Antique guitar at and the latter by a pleasant place of study. The
Museo Histórico European Cubism Colegio Nacional de Monserrat
P Cripta Jesuítica del and Surrealism. located nearby is another Jesuit
Noviciado Viejo edifice. An ear lier school, located
Cnr, Rivera Indarte & Ave Colón. P Museo Histórico de outside the city, was founded in
Tel (0351) 434-1228. la Universidad Nacional 1687, but was transferred to the
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri. de Córdoba pres ent site in 1782, after the
Unearthed in 1989, this Obispo Trejo 242. Tel (0351) 433-2075. Jesuit priests had been expelled.
Córdoba Airport underground site was a Jesuit Open 9am–6:30pm Mon–Sat. An all-male school until 1998, it
8 miles (13 km) AV COLÓN Cripta Jesuítica C ATA M A R C A novitiate in the 1600s and 1700s, ∑ cba.gov.ar/cordoba-cultura/ still enjoys a reputa tion as an
del Noviciado Viejo
museos Iglesia de la Compañía:
expelled from Argentina in 1773.
colonial shell is embellished with
J U J U Y 9 D E J U L I O T U C U M A N A V G E N E R A L PA Z R I VA D A V I A L I M A M A I P U until the Society of Jesus was Open 8am–1pm, 5–8pm Tue–Sun. elite center of learning. The neo-
S U C R E
5 noon, 8pm.
majolica tiling, ornate doorways,
The remnants of the original
Museo Municipal R I V E R A I N D A R T E S A N M A R T I N ALVEAR brickwork can be seen in Granted by the colonial rulers to and window grilles.
D E A N F U N E S
de Bellas Artes AV OLMOS
Dr Genaro Pérez Cabildo 2 5 D E M AY O S A LTA fragments on the walls. The three the Jesuits in 1583, this complex
is also called Manzana de los
original naves carved into the
MICROCENTRO
2 7 D E A B R I L
Iglesia
B E L G R A N O CASEROS AV VELEZ SARSFIELD Catedral Rectorado ROSARIO DE SANTA FE rock are used to house cultural Jesuitas (Jesuit Block). From here
the Society of Jesus over saw
exhibitions and conferences.
their mission to convert native
Good acoustics also enable
PLAZA
SAN MARTÍN
Museo Histórico
peoples across central and
theatrical performances here.
Museo Histórico
A VA C U C H O Nacional de Córdoba O B I S P O T R E J O Nacional de B U E N O S A I R E S S A N J E R Ó N I M O E Museo Municipal de northwestern Argentina, as well
Provincial Marqués
UNC
de la Universidad
de Sobremonte
Colegio
A V M A R C E LO T. D E A LV E A R
as the adminis tration of their
BLVD CHACABUCO
Montserrat
La Cañada D U A R T E Q U I R O S I T U Z A I N G O ENTRE RIOS O B I S P O S A L G U E R O Bellas Artes Dr. Genaro Pérez farming and agricu ltural interests.
I N D E P E N D E N C I A C O R R I E N T E S PA R A N A Ave General Paz 33. Tel (0351) The complex, along with five
434-1646. Open 10am−8pm
Jesuit estancias in the prov ince,
B A L C A R C E Tue−Sun. ∑ museogenaroperez. was recognized by UNESCO as
B LVD S A N JU AN
wordpress.com
a World Heritage Site in 2000.
M O N T E V I D E O
Bus
Terminal Dedicated to Argentinian works Iglesia de la Compañía was built The grand Cusco altarpiece at Iglesia de
of the 18th and 19th centuries, in 1640 and is the country’s oldest la Compañía
B L V D A I L L I A
AV H IR IG O YE N
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp280–81 and pp293–4
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