Page 474 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Australia

472  T ASM ANIA

pFranklin-Gordon
Wild Rivers
National Park
@ Strahan. n The Esplanade,
Strahan (03) 6472 6800.
∑ parks.tas.gov.au
One of Australia’s great wild
river systems flows through
southwest Tasmania. This
spectacular region consists of
high ranges and deep gorges.
The Franklin­Gordon Wild Rivers
National Park extends southeast
from Macquarie Harbour and
is one of four national parks in
the western part of Tasmania
that make up the Tasmanian
Wilderness World Heritage
Area (see pp30–31). The park
Boats sailing on the deceptively calm waters of Macquarie Harbour takes its name from the
Franklin and Gordon rivers,
oMacquarie well­known in the early 1980s both of which were saved by
Harbour when protesters from across conservationists in 1983.
Australia came to Strahan to Within the park’s 442,000 ha
@ Strahan. n The Esplanade, Strahan fight government plans to flood (1,090,000 acres) are vast tracts
(03) 6472 6800 or 1800 352 200.
the wild and beautiful Franklin of cool temperate rainforest, as
Off the wild, western coast of River for a hydroelectric scheme. well as waterfalls and dolerite­
Tasmania there is nothing but A fascinating exhibition at the and quartzite­capped
vast stretches of ocean until visitor centre in Strahan charts mountains. The flora within
the southern tip of Argentina, the drama of Australia’s most the park is as varied as the
on the other side of the globe. famous environmental protest. landscape, with impenetrable
The region bears the full brunt Strahan today is one of horizontal scrub, lichen­coated
of the “Roaring Forties” – the Tasmania’s loveliest towns, with trees, pandani plants and the
name given to the tremendous its old timber buildings, scenic endemic conifers, King William,
winds that whip southwesterly port and natural backdrop of celery top and Huon pines.
off the Southern Ocean. fretted mountains and dense The easiest way into this largely
In this hostile environment, bushland. One of its main trackless wilderness is via a boat
Tasmania’s Aborigines survived attractions is a restored 1896 cruise from Strahan. Visitors
for thousands of years before railway, which travels 35 km can disembark and take a short
European convicts were sent (22 miles) across rivers and walk to see a 2,000­year­old
here in the 1820s and took mountains to the old mining Huon pine. The park also
over the land. Their harsh settlement at Queenstown. contains the rugged peak of
and isolated settlement was a
penal station on Sarah Island,
situated in the middle of
Macquarie Harbour.
The name of the harbour’s
mouth, “Hell’s Gates”, reflects
conditions endured by both
seamen and convicts – ship­
wrecks, drownings, suicides
and murders all occurred here.
Abandoned in 1833 for the
“model prison” of Port Arthur
(see pp474–5), Sarah Island and
its penal settlement ruins can
be viewed on a guided boat
tour available from the fishing
port of Strahan.
Strahan grew up around an
early timber industry supported
by convict labour. It became The Tasmanian wilderness at the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp533–5