Page 208 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

206 BAGAN AND AROUND BAGAN
5 EXPLORING BAGAN
The architectural background to the temples of Bagan is covered in detail in Contexts
(see box, p.390), which provides a fuller overview of the various styles and features of the
myriad monuments and their historical context. The history of Bagan is also covered in
Contexts (see p.359).
ITINERARIES
There are endless different ways of tackling the temples of Bagan, with monuments clustered
so thickly on the ground that fixing on a particular itinerary is a matter of personal taste rather
than practical necessity. It’s best to take your time – rush in Bagan, and you’re likely to become
rapidly templed out and terminally stupa-fied. You’ll need at least three days to get to grips
with the major monuments, and getting on for a week to properly explore all the places
covered here. Keep in mind that a thorough investigation of the whole site could take the best
part of a year.
That said, a few pointers might prove useful. The monuments of Old Bagan make a logical
starting point, the site’s densest and most diverse collection of temples including the landmark
Thatbyinnyu and Gawdawpalin, along with a host of other fascinating buildings. The temples
of the Central Plain – including the stunning Shwesandaw, Dhammayangyi and Sulamani
– will fill a second day, perhaps with the Mingalazedi and Dhammayazika Pagoda included,
while a third day can be spent exploring the area between Nyaung U and Old Bagan,
particularly the magnificent Shwezigon Pagoda and Htilominlo Paya, and the mural-covered
Upali Thein and Gubyaukgyi Paya. A further string of temples stretches south of Old Bagan
through Myinkaba village to New Bagan, and there’s another cluster of absorbing little
monuments around the village of Minnanthu, which is somewhat off the beaten track, and a
perfect place to escape the modest crowds.
It’s also worth remembering that there are around two thousand further temples not
covered in the accounts here, and it’s also fun to leave your guidebook in your hotel room and
go off exploring – you’re more or less guaranteed to have most places entirely to yourself.
PRACTICALITIES
Many of Bagan’s less-visited temples are kept locked, particularly those containing delicate
murals or valuable artefacts. In most places, someone will magically appear to unlock the
temple for you; occasionally you might have to ask around to find the keyholder. A tip of
around K500 generally suffices.
A decent torch is pretty much essential if you want to properly appreciate Bagan’s
many remarkable temple murals. If you don’t have one, you can sometimes borrow one
from the temple keyholder or resident hawker. A tip is obviously expected – again around
K500 is fine.
Note that photography of Bagan’s fragile murals is expressly forbidden inside the more
popular temples. In less busy temples you might be allowed to take photographs, although
given the damaging effects of flash on the temple’s delicate, centuries-old paintings, the
responsible thing to do is to keep your camera in your bag.

down to the pavement. Fine glazed tiles depicting various Jataka scenes are set
around the base (although many are now missing), while double-bodied lions
guard each corner.
Large shrines sit at the bottom of the four staircases, each containing an impressive
standing gilded bronze Buddha (the four largest in Bagan), modelled after the Indian
Gupta style – although they’re rather difficult to see behind their protective grilles.
Exiting the northern side of the temple, the path leads down to the water, with fine
river views.
The temple is the site of a major festival during the Burmese month of Tazaungmone
(in October or November), during which pilgrims from all over the country converge
on Nyaung U, and Shwezigon transforms into an enormous country fair, complete
with puppet shows, open-air theatre, dance performances and so on, plus handicraft
and food stalls aplenty.