Page 212 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

210 BAGAN AND AROUND BAGAN
5 ambulatory (one ambulatory enclosed within the other), with huge teak doors hung at
each of the four entrances to the outer ambulatory and numerous ornate niches lining
the ambulatory walls, with small carvings within including Buddha figures and scenes
from his life.
Four enormous Buddhas stand on each side of the temple’s central core, with further
pairs of guardian figures in front. The Buddha statues on the north and south sides are
original (in the dharmachakra, or teaching, mudra). The other two are replacements in
the later Konbaung style for original statues destroyed by fire in the 1600s. Sitting at
the feet of the western Buddha (in the abhaya – “have no fear” – mudra) are two
lacquer figures said to depict King Kyansittha and Shin Arahan (see p.385). The eastern
Buddha – with arms by its sides and hands outstretched – is unusual in that it doesn’t
conform to any recognized mudra. The small object between the image’s fingertips is
said to be a herbal pill, perhaps symbolizing the cure from suffering offered by the
Buddha’s teachings. Quirkiest of all is the face of the southern Buddha, which changes
from a pensive pout to a cheesy grin as you walk away from it.

Old Bagan
The monuments clustered within the ancient walled city of OLD BAGAN are without
doubt the finest in Bagan, and this is an excellent place to start exploring the
Archeological Zone. The sights here are also remarkably diverse, covering all the various
periods and styles of Bagan, from the historic Bupaya and bunker-like Pahtothamya
Paya through to the flamboyant late-style Gawdawpalin Paya, as well as several
curiosities including the nat-inspired Tharaba Gate, the ersatz-Indian Mahabodhi Paya,
the Pitakat Taik library and the Hindu Nathlaung Kyaung shrine – not to mention the
magnificent Thatbyinnyu Paya, one of Bagan’s greatest temples.
Tharaba Gate

Approaching from Nyaung U, the entrance to the formerly walled city of Old Bagan
is via the quaint Tharaba Gate, the only one of Old Bagan’s twelve former gateways
to survive. Sections of the original city walls, constructed by King Pyinbya (846–76)
in 849, can still be seen on either side. Casting aside Buddhist orthodoxy, the gate is
dedicated to the two Mahagiri (see box, p.230) nat spirits, popularly known as Maung
Tinde (“Mr Handsome”), whose image stands in a niche on the left-hand side of the
gate, and his sister Shwemyethna (“Golden Face”) opposite.
Bagan Golden Palace
• Daily 6am–8pm • $5
A shameless eyesore in the heart of historic Bagan, the Bagan Golden Palace complex
claims to re-create the royal splendour of Bagan’s former kings, complete with
overblown pseudo-traditional architecture, extraneous quantities of gilded paint and
other stylistic nonsense – although it’s really just an OTT shopping and entertainment
venue designed to squeeze easy dollars out of the passing coach-party trade. The
inflated entrance price gives you full access to the complex’s overpriced souvenir shops
and so-called “bazaars”, but not much else.
Royal Palace Archeological Site
Opposite the ersatz Bagan Golden Palace, the Royal Palace Archeological Site protects
the uninteresting remains of Bagan’s original palace complex. It’s not currently open to
visitors, which is no great shame, and you can in any case get a decent view of the
modest excavations by peering through the roadside fence.