Page 211 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

BAGAN BAGAN AND AROUND 209
Upali Thein 5
• Next to Bagan–Nyaung U Rd, 250m west of the Htilominlo Paya • Daily 8am–6pm
Erected during the reign of King Kyazwa (1235–50), the small but striking Upali Thein
is one of Bagan’s few surviving ordination halls (thein). The building looks unlike any
other in Bagan – its steeply ridged roof and lean-to aisles were possibly modelled after
now-vanished wooden buildings of the period, with two tiers of quaint, lozenge-shaped
battlements (an eighteenth-century addition) and a tiny spire on the top.
A steel frame supports the lopsided interior, which was damaged during the 1975
earthquake, and there’s a single Buddha statue at the end. The walls are decorated with
intricately detailed murals depicting various Jataka scenes in pale greens, dark reds and
whites. These are not original, however, as they were added in the eighteenth century,
and the figures are much larger than those in traditional Bagan paintings.
Alotawpyi-gu-hpaya
• Halfway between Nyaung U and Old Bagan, right next to Anawrahta Rd • Daily 7am–9pm
The eye-catching Alotawpyi-gu-hpaya is one of the few temples between Nyaung U and
Old Bagan still in daily use, normally busy with locals and offering a lively contrast to
the time-warped monuments surrounding it on all sides. Usually, relatively few tourists
stop by. Built in the twelfth century by King Kyansittha, the ancient shrine has latticed
brick windows and a pure early-period style, while the incongruously glitzy gilded
stupa above has a distinct touch of Hollywood about it – altogether, the building seems
a bit like a very elderly lady in an outrageously loud hat. The modern tiled interior is
very much that of a working temple rather than an archeological monument, its walls
decorated with crude but colourful orange and brown murals of identikit Buddhas
lined up in rows. A large stupa stands directly behind the temple, with traces of green
glazed tiles still visible on its bell.
Ananda Paya
• Just east of Old Bagan • Daily 8am–6pm
Built between 1090 and 1105 during the reign of King Kyansittha, the Ananda Paya is
one of the largest and most stunning of all the Bagan temples, its landmark spire rising
52m high above the surrounding plains. The Ananda is generally considered the
culminating masterpiece of early-period Bagan architecture, although it also hints at
the city’s later architectural style with its six rooftop terraces and soaring spire, which
give it a lofty profile quite unlike earlier, horizontally challenged, designs. The ground
plan (a Greek cross embedded in a square) is also innovative, with four entrances rather
than the customary one, and the absence of the usual brick-latticework fill inside the
window frames allows far more light inside compared to the atmospheric gloom which
had previously been the norm in Bagan’s shrines.

The exterior
Before plunging inside, it’s worth strolling around the temple to have a look at the
building’s superb exterior. The four imposing entrances are richly decorated with miniature
stupas and extravagant flame-shaped door and window pediments – and just above, the
corners of the six terraces are crowded with assorted miniature stupas and statues of lions
and Buddhas. Fine glazed tiles depicting various Jataka scenes (the largest such collection in
Bagan) run around all six terraces; those adorning the base of the temple depict (on the
western side of the building) the Buddha’s victory over Mara and his monstrous army and
(on the eastern side) devas holding auspicious symbols. Look out, too, for the unusual
double-bodied chinthe that sit at ground level guarding the corners of the structure.
The interior
The Ananda boasts one of Bagan’s finest interiors. The four entrances are each protected
by a pair of door guardians seated in niches. Beyond, there’s an unusual double