Page 209 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

BAGAN BAGAN AND AROUND 207
5
THE NATS OF SHWEZIGON
The Shwezigon is interesting historically for its role in the development of Burmese
Buddhism. Aware of his people’s love of the old nat spirits (see p.386), the savvy King
Anawrahta decided to encourage interest in the new Theravada Buddhist faith by placing
images of the 37 most revered nats on the lower terraces of the stupa, believing that people
would be won over to the new Buddhist faith more easily if it incorporated aspects of their
traditional beliefs – and thus setting a precedent for the combined nat and Buddhist shrines
that can still be found throughout Myanmar to this day (nowhere more so than at nearby
Taung Kalat and Mount Popa).
The nats of Shwezigon, meanwhile, having fulfilled their original function, are now relegated
to a subsidiary shrine – signed “Shrine of Bodaw Indra and 37 Nats” – tucked away in the
far southeast corner of the temple compound. You may be able to find someone to open it for
you for a tip, offering you a surreal glimpse of the 37 small gilded images of assembled nat
notables lined up solemnly in glass cases – and looking decidedly neglected compared to
their glory days sitting enthroned upon King Anawrahta’s magnificent stupa.

Kyansittha Umin
• Signed off Main Rd a few metres past the entrance to the Shwezigon Pagoda’s southern covered terrace •
Daily 8am–6pm
Almost in the shadow of the Shwezigon Pagoda, the modest Kyansittha Umin is easily
missed but worth a look for its unusual murals. The name means “Cave of Kyansittha”
in honour of King Kyansittha, although the building most likely dates back to the rule
of his father, Anawrahta. The small rectangular brick building (not actually a cave) was
apparently used as a monastic residence, although it’s difficult to see how anyone would
have managed to live in the cramped interior, bisected by a grid of narrow passages
which are now propped up with steel frames following earthquake damage in 1975.
Virtually every interior surface is covered with fine murals in subdued whites,
browns and yellows, depicting various scenes from daily life and Buddhist mythology.
Particularly interesting are the paintings of Mongol soldiers (on the rear wall roughly
opposite the entrance) – a memento of the repeated Mongol incursions into Myanmar
in the late thirteenth century. The invaders are instantly recognizable thanks to their
distinctive hats, like upturned fruit bowls decorated with fancy plumes.

Nyaung U to Old Bagan
Myriad monuments dot the area between Nyaung U and Old Bagan, although
relatively few are of sufficient interest to feature on most tourist itineraries. They do,
however, include two of Bagan’s finest temples – the flamboyant Htilominlo Paya,
midway between Nyaung U and Old Bagan, and the magnificent Ananda Paya, just
outside the latter.
Gubyaukgyi Paya (Wet Kyi Inn) and around
• Off Anawrahta Rd • Daily 8am–6pm
Not far from Nyaung U is the thirteenth-century Gubyaukgyi Paya (“Great Painted
Cave Temple” – not to be confused with the identically named temple in Myinkaba),
signed off Anawrahta Road as “Nge Gu Pyauk Gyi”. Traces of fine plasterwork can
still be seen on the exterior, which has an unusual pyramidal spire above – perhaps
inspired by the one at the Mahabodhi temple in Old Bagan. Inside are many fine
murals showing assorted Jataka scenes, arranged mosaic-like within dozens of small
square panels.
A certain Dr Thomann from Germany, who visited in 1899, authored one of the first
books ever written on Bagan. Sadly, as well as writing about the area, he also felt it
acceptable to remove many of the paintings that were originally here, and sell them in